I am in Tokyo. Sleepless and jet lagged, I set off for Ueno Zoo. I walk there at 07:30 which is very pleasant as the tremendous heat of the day is still nursing its wrath. The zoo does not open until 09:30 so I sit in Starbucks and drink iced coffee. I have never understood why some people, especially the British, don’t like Starbucks.

I do not have a hat and before long I feel bad.


There are announcements warning us of the exceptional heat. To avoid death we should hydrate and walk slowly.


I sit panting in the shade whenever I can. I soon realise that I will not be able to walk around the major part of zoo. Defeated, I head back to my hotel. It is only a kilometre or so but, dizzy from heat, at times I am not sure if I can make it! I spend the rest of the day in bed in a dark, heavily air conditioned room.
Next morning, I walk to Kappabashi where there are lots of knife and kitchen stuff shops. I am there too early as most of the shops do not open until 10:00. Somebody has turned up the heat again and fascinating though the dozens and dozens of knife shops may be, I can only think of dark rooms and air conditioning.

I learn from yesterday’s ghastly stagger back to the hotel and get a cab. The news on TV is about the exceptional heat – 35 degrees made worse by concrete.
I venture out late in the afternoon to Ameyoko market. Hundreds of small specialist shops and even more crazy restaurants of every description. This is a wonderful place and despite the heat, my wilted enthusiasm is totally restored.

I find myself surrounded by hat shops. I have little hope of finding a hat that fits as my head is grotesquely swollen due to years of self adoration. Two hilarious young Japanese ladies find me just the thing.


I stop to get some Takoyaki and ice cold beer. This I eat standing in the street like everyone else. One of the best meals.


Tomorrow to the cool, I hope, mountains of Nagano.
I think I just posted an email to you, BUT it is also possible that I flubbed it. oh well. Very much enjoying your missives – thanks! ~Rachel