The Good Patient

Happy New Year everybody!

2025, what a terrible year! 2026 has to be better – fingers crossed.

Because I have been a good patient, Nurse James takes me on a New Year’s Day excursion to Point Reyes. Always a winner. I am able to stagger around reasonably well and the fresh Pacific Ocean air is invigorating.

Thank you Nurse James!
Rare one antlered Elk.
A little lie down
More turkey!
More stuffing!
Go away!
Mule Deer.

Always a thrill

Back to bed!

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Rule Britannia

Amid the storm and drang of hospital stuff, here is a still, small voice of calm.

I need to renew my passport. I expect misery, pain and delay. Not so!

His Majesty’s Passport Office has a very good web site. I follow very simple procedures and subsequently send my old passport back to Hemel Hempstead.

On 10 December I get a brand new passport – all the way from exotic Hemel Hempstead.

It is blue.
This should see me out.

Great job folks at the Passport Office in sultry Hemel Hempstead! Thank you.

Rule Britannia!

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Call the Doctor, Page a Nurse.

I return from hospital and do as I am told. I lie on my greasy, foetid, sleeping mat, take antibiotics and take it easy. I fully expect to be fighting fit in a couple of days. It does not work out like that at all!

I get more severe pains in my chest and after a day of ‘I’m not a poofter’, I ask Nurse James to take me back to the glorious Zuckerberg SF General Hospital.

Nae awa tae bide awa.

I am immediately put back into Emergency and the next day have an operation to suck fluids out of my lungs.

Black bits are healthy lung whereas grey bits bottom left and right are awash.
This might be clearer. It depicts my lungs not testes.

I am transferred to an amazing room with a great view over The Mission.

Shout out for free Californian healthcare.
Click a couple of times on this image to expand it. Search the left skyline and you will see the top of the Golden Gate Bridge.
I have tubes coming out of both sides of my chest to suck out pus.
Pus bucket. They finally extract nearly 3 litres, for which I get a gold star!

After the operation, I experience quite a lot of pain. I demand morphine but they are strangely reluctant to give me any. However, a nice nurse comes around with a bong.

Take a hit, brother.

So, I stay in hospital day after day waiting for my lungs to drain. It is a wonderful way pass the time.

A stream of wonderfully amusing, friendly nurses and doctors come visit. The diversity of nationalities is huge. Eritrean, Nigerian, Irish, Palestinian Phillipino, Chinese, Lebanese, Japanese, Lancashire, German, Vietnamese, Indian, Puerto Rican and many more. Very happiness making. My favourite is a young nurse from Ghana. His hobby is to watch football matches in the great stadiums of the world.

“What is the best match you have seen?”

“Rangers/Celtic at Ibrox Park by a million miles! Everyone was hopelessly drunk and fighting. It was not like being on Earth!” Yay Scotland! Radge!

The peerless Dr Hana! She is from Lebanon and wants to teach me dabke when I get out! https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=2113921765742430

Anyway, after 10 days, I am released on Xmas Eve.

I am pretty feeble.
Cosy back at home under a very cool Mohave saddle blanket that Nurse James gave me for Xmas. I love it!

I hope all Jewish buddies had a wonderful Hanukkah, likewise Christian brothers and sisters for Xmas. Everyone, please accept my very best wishes for a happy and prosperous 2026.

I cannot thank the staff at Zuckerberg SF General enough. They are all stars!

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San Francisco Fire Department

I think I forgot to mention in the write ups of my European excursion that throughout I had an explosive chest cough. The cough was activated if someone stood in front of me and tried to engage me in conversation. I coughed explosively into their faces. Very European.

Once in San Francisco, I swallowed handfuls of Ibuprofen and Amazon cough syrup and the cough abated somewhat.

You order it on Amazon in the morning and is is there in the afternoon.

However this progress was counterbalanced by extreme, deep chest pain. Fearing heart attack, I contact my Provider, which means doctor in Californian, and set up an appointment for the next day.

I have loads of doctor-like checks after which the Provider says, ” You must go to hospital.”

“When?”

“Now!

“How?”

“The ambulance is already here.”

A huge San Francisco Fire Department (SFFD) truck and beautiful ambulance are disgorging paramedics into the parking lot.

Earth has not anything to show more fair
We don”t fuck around

I am strapped to a gurney and loaded into the ambulance. I express surprise at the rapidity and vigour of the response. “73 year old guy with chest pains; we don’t fuck about.”

Is there anything cooler than blasting through the sunny streets of San Francisco in a siren-howling, bright-red, SFFD ambulance? Well, maybe the same without being sick I suppose.

I spend 3 days in San Francisco General Hospital.

Iraisha! Such fun!

All kinds of checks and scans.

Monitor above my bed into which I am permanently plugged.

Anyway, it turns out I have advanced pneumonia, but no immediate risk of heart attack. Hooray!

Breakfast
Lunch

I prefer Japanese hospital food.

Thanks to SFFD guys and all the staff at Mark Zuckerberg General Hospital, the facilities and treatment are outstanding. Everything is free – thanks MediCal; apparently 71 million folks have Medicare in the U.S.

I bump into one of my SFFD buddies as I leave. “What should I do when I get home?”

“Go to bed and fucking stay there!”

That is the sort of muscular medical treatment I like.

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Douce France

Zandra and Guy pick me up at the end of the Symposium and we go to listen to John Intrator play blue grass in a bar in Carouge. On the way there, we wander through the nighttime streets of the vielle ville de Geneva. So medieval, so far from Okinawa or San Francisco.

I played Irish music with John 30 years ago! Have’t seen him for 25 years.

I wake up in the Chateau de Sothonod.

The front
The side.

The weather is very bad. We are forced to snuggle by wood burning stoves, eating and drinking.

like this most of the time.

Stay at the Chateau de Sothonod! https://chateaudesothonod.com

Fish stew
St Arthaud, who was born in the chateau
Skull of feral goat that we found on Cara https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cara_Island sometime in the 90’s, threatening a Barn Owl.
Zandra makes lots of delicious jam.

We go to buy masses of wine and stumble over this.

Cascade de Cerveyrieu!
Wine tasting! All local vins de Bugey. Glug, glug
Zandra is a ceramicist.
I buy a bear. You buy other stuff https://zandrascreations.com
Bear

We have an amazing lunch.

Local food and wine. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Restaurant+Le+Séran/@45.8733623,5.6945354,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1sCIHM0ogKEICAgID2stzF3gE!2e10!3e12!6shttps:%2F%2Flh3.googleusercontent.com%2Fgps-cs-s%2FAG0ilSwJ9Ax777TNxgJwrFTABReLZt9N0rkb-CK46UhK6ZL_b6gMd142oGdIr2fzxsX0mgfYT9f-Q6EIhxNf6ZzTzdT-n1nD2rNMQNsmAtf1zl9m_JhyEAwAmcfuMnokR2Qm-CpVRN3NVQ%3Dw181-h86-k-no!7i4032!8i1908!4m11!1m2!2m1!1srestaurant+le+seran!3m7!1s0x478b6fb2aa465147:0xd221b91c1265e25f!8m2!3d45.8734695!4d5.694547!10e5!15sChNyZXN0YXVyYW50IGxlIHNlcmFuWhUiE3Jlc3RhdXJhbnQgbGUgc2VyYW6SAQpyZXN0YXVyYW50qgFKCg0vZy8xMWhjdHpxM2J3EAEyHhABIhrxpo5RkQt9OQY3U0iWvXo-f4hdRZsjTSodYjIXEAIiE3Jlc3RhdXJhbnQgbGUgc2VyYW7gAQA!16s%2Fg%2F11hdvmcn2w?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MTExNi4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Magnificent lunch! We take our time.

Assiete de charcuterie
Salade Magret de Canard
Salade Carpaccio de Thon
Poulet aux deux choux
Travers de porc
Ris de Veau a la creme aux morilles. At least 2 kilos of morilles in this dish. Delicious!
Very good Chignin
We have so much fun.
Guy is a wonderful er guy.

One of the compensations of old age is old friends. I have met loads on this short euro adventure.

I love them all.

Thank you, Zandra and Guy for great kindness at the chateau.

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History Boys and Girls

I am asked to talk at the 4th International Symposium on the History of Particle Physics at CERN. What fun! Anyone who is anyone in global particle physics in the 1980s and 1990s, the period covered by the Symposium, is there. 4 days of nostalgia.

Chris, who is chairing the symposium, and I arrange to have dinner on the night before the kick off. The restaurant is pretty much closed by the time we get there and we dine on tiny sandwiches, a plum and yoghourt!

Not impressed!
John!
Ugo, Kostas, Sudeshna and James!
Albrecht!
My neighbour in San Francisco!
Robert!
Martine, Fabiola!
Helga, Luciano!
Robert,Walter!
I’ve got a bird that whistles, I’ve got a bird that sings!
I get into a fist fight with String Theorists – they are a bad bunch. CERN fireman apply first aid.
Stephanie and Wendy!
Helen and Hirotaka!
Breakfast
Chris, Monica!
John, Siobhan and Roger!
Jeremy, Vivienne!

What a fantastic event – many thanks to the organizers. How lucky am I to be part of such things?!

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In Our Mountain Greenery

Back in San Francisco.

I go up to Clement to get an octopus and some dim sum.

Octopus shop
Dim Sum shop

I leave my iPhone in the Waymo on my Waymo back home – Senile Neil. On the ‘find my Mac’ app I see the phone is on Tolland St. I contact Waymo. They are wonderful, ” Tolland is our depot. Lemme look over the car Sir. I found your phone brother. Just come down and pick it up.” I am so lucky!

Thanks Waymo!

To celebrate phone ‘I once was lost but now I’m found’ scenario, Bebo and I have lunch.

Bebo is a Southern Belle and eats oyster po boys
I get Fried Catfish plate
Rare Downy Woodpecker at the feeder.

James and I head off into the Mountain Greenery where God paints the scenery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vnkPU2Af9E&list=RD0vnkPU2Af9E&start_radio=1

Jame4s, a mushroom expert, harvests Chicken in the woods.
Beautiful colours
First Camp
River by camp.
We eat octopus and potatoes. awn unusual camp meal.
James finds huge bolets
Cold in the morning.
Abandoned settlement way back in the woods.
Second camp. Could not tell you where it is.

We drive around the Stanislaus National Forest, which is up by Yosemite for 3 days. Rough forest roads, beautiful Fall scenery, we see no one. We don’t know where we are most of the time. California is an incredible state. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Stanislaus+National+Forest/@38.2499716,-120.0829699,22301m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x809748cbbce65c61:0xc38bd0a09c84cb81!8m2!3d38.2501932!4d-120.0012955!16s%2Fg%2F1tfg7xzc?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MTAyOS4yIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Lamb, potatoes, chicken in the woods.
Farniente
James finds a Satan’s Bolete. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubroboletus_satanas
iPhone camera’s low light ability is astonishing. No flash here.
Bay Bridge!

Thanks James for being a top companion and for doing all the driving!

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Bear Minimum

I set off, with my new eyes, for the mountains of Canada to take photos of Grizzly Bears.

Bad moon rising on the night before I left Okinawa.

I get in my hire car to take it back to the shop. It will not start! I manage to contact the owner of the rental business, another Kiyuna san. He comes over to get the car and we get a taxi to take me to the airport. Very stressful as I now have about 30 seconds to catch the flight. I make it but only just. My heart is going pitter patter pitter pat.

I get to Narita and try to check in for my flight to Vancouver.”No-one called Calder on this flight sir – So sorry!” We look at the ticket again; my flight was on the previous day. I have screwed up. JAL are fantastic and organise to exchange the ticket so I can fly tonight. There is $100 something fee, I press pay. I then get a message from Wells Fargo, my US bank, that in the interest of security I will have to fill in the code that they will send to my US phone number. I only have my Japanese phone and cannot access my US number. I can not pay the $100, I can not get the exchange ticket. There is only 15 minutes to boarding. I buy a new horrendously expensive new ticket. Costly trip.

Charter flight from Vancouver to some lost airstrip in the hills. Truck to the lodge.

Everyone at the lodge is friendly but I sense a certain reticence when I ask questions about bears. Anyway we go straight out onto the river to search for grizzlies. There aren’t any. It slowly comes out that this is the worst year in living memory for seeing them. It is also very, very cold. I have not brought suitable clothing as it is difficult to imagine how cold really cold is in the 35 degree heat of Okinawa. I freeze on the first trip. My legs, encased in thin nylon trousers, stop working completely and I have to be craned out of the boat.

I am rescued by Josh, head guide, who lends me a pair of very butch overalls and by Andy who lends me long johns and gloves.

Overalls. I am saved.

No bears yet but there is lots of other stuff to see.

Martin, one of the guides. Great bloke.
Thousands of dead salmon form a mat on the bottom of the river.
Merganser
Juvenile Bald Eagle ripping up dead salmon, of which hundreds litter the shoreline.
Hooray a bear! A long way away.

The lodge is fantastic. We get 3 big cowboy meals each day with free drink!

Big slab of prime rib.
Deer swims river
Lodge detail
Cowboy hats

Each day we leave at 7:30 and look for bears. Back for lunch at 12:00 followed by nap until we re -embark at 3:30.

On the Tuesday we get to see a bear very close to.

Big Grizzly Bear
Big
Salmon everywhere.

On the penultimate day we go for an excursion on Lake Chilko. Beautiful scenery! We visit ancient cabin in the forest and a First Nations’ camp. Lunch on a beautiful beach covered in bear tracks.

Sunny but cold.

We set off home, 30 kms away. Suddenly both engines stop! Josh the head guide is not happy. We are out of gas. How can that be?! We drift onto a lee shore and Josh, la longue carabine like, lopes off into the forest to a First Nations camp 8 kms away. Time passes, it gets dark, we light a fire. Stranded on a lost lake in lost British Columbia. We hear shouting, it is Josh stumbling along the beach with a big jerry can of gas. He is a very tough guy. We make it home in the dark. A good adventure. Home for big steaks, Canadian whisky and red wine.

Fantastic steak
Lots of Bald Eagles
Great birds.
Semper fi
The lodge also does riding adventures. There are beautiful horses everywhere.
Juvenile delinquent.

A week with no phone, no internet, lashings of fresh air, incredible food and drink. Very good. Stupidly I tripped getting out of the boat on the second day. I bashed my face and ribs. The face healed up quickly but I was cursed with painful ribs for the rest of the trip

I feel very sorry for the staff at the lodge. There are very few bears; we see two. I believe them when they say there are usually bears all over the place. They are ashamed that the week did not turn out like the brochure. I blame the bad moon that rose over Okinawa before I left.

I do not mind the paucity of grizzlies as there is so much else to see. I had a great time.

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Saury

Stuff you can buy in supermarkets here is still very seasonal. Vegetables come and go depending on the time of year. One of the great seasonal treats is a fish called Saury. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_saury

These fish only show up at the beginning of fall and their arrival causes great excitement. This year is a great year for saury with bumper catches. I get the impression that the morale of the whole country has been boosted. They are only in the shops for a few weeks and then you wait another year.

They are everywhere.

I rarely ate them in the past; in fact only in restaurants on the urging of friends. I have an inbuilt suspicion of long thin fish assuming that they will be very boney. Also we don’t really have long thin fish in Europe or the States.

They are super easy to prepare. They don’t really have guts and most people don’t bother to clean them out. You just chuck them in a frying pan for a few minute, some lemon juice and then scarf them. The flesh separates from the bones with no struggle and I now eat them 2 or 3 times a week. They are delicious!

More saury
Ichiro san helps me on the boat in preparation the first voyage

Yep, I take the boat out for the first time in over 2 years! Typhoon damage, absence and sickness have kept me on dry land.

Nice weather
Sails need looking at

Julian, student from OIST, helps crew. Thank you Julian.

Unfortunately there is no wind and we flap around aimlessly most of the time. However we are out on the ocean and the weather is glorious.

Nice colours but horribly creased sail.
Hooray – sailing again!
Doing at least one knot

I leave Okinawa at the end of the week! I wonder how long it will be before I take the boat out again.

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No Longer Eyeless in Ginowan

After failed attempts at cataract surgery I finally succeed. This is really a panegyric to the  Hayakawa Eye Clinic.

After the the actual surgery, I go back the next day and the day after that for checks and vision acuity examinations. Everyone is so nice! The nurses are hilarious and giggle all the time as we flirt over Google translate. The Sensei is also very funny but not really flirtatious. However he clearly knows what he is doing, which is the main thing.

Yesterday I go back for a final time and get my new eyesight prescription. Seven consultations, not including the actual surgeries, in 2 weeks. No waiting, just fun. If you ever come to Okinawa, pop into the Hayakawa Eye Clinic to say hi.

With my new prescription held in a cleft stick, I head off to Owndays, a big all things glasses chain in Japan. “We can make up your new clear glasses now but the dark lenses will take a week. We are so sorry for the inconvenience.”

She cleans my grubby sun glasses with exquisite care.
‘Seeing the unknown future with Owndays’ – classic anglo/Japanese slogan.

I once was blind but now I see – thanks everybody.

It is still beastly hot which restricts boat activity to rat-like scuttles down to the Marina before I am scared off by the heat and humility. The merciless sun simply blasts off paint and varnish from the boat. I manage a bit of tender care.

Dried out bowsprit.

Who are you going to call? Sikkens Ceto Deck of course.

Kiyuna san gave me this a couple of years ago. It is fantastic stuff.
After couple of coats. A couple more coats will do no harm at all.
I love doing this sort of stuff. Not the best video!
Lots of stirring is always a good thing.

I wish it was n’t so hot.

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