Yes, it means I have been back to the dentist. After misery and pain, I reward myself with a nice, big octopus from the Tomari Fish Market.
Chez le dentiste
Mina san, who has been voted Okinawa’s funniest dental nurse, no mean achievement as the competition is intense, is eight months pregnant with her second daughter.
I buy her a baby bear suit. Much too big I’m afraid. She will grow into it.
Charlie, the Bonny Earl, Murray, pays a visit from Australia. We all worked together 10 years ago and had a wonderful time.
This is what I have been leading over the last few months -no great drama, nor tragedy and only bits of comedy. I blame the weather; well, up to a point.
It rained consistently for the first 2 months and then from one day to the next, Okinawa became a cauldron of heat and humidity. Impossible to do much in either case.
Nonetheless, I continue with my rigorous training schedule of walking to restaurants and wolfing down large quantities of outstanding food – mainly fish.
Octopus Tempura.The usual suspects3 different fish, oysters, big shrimp and soup.Super quality sashimi bowl.
Maybe the greatest excitement was getting a new car. Kiyuna san, who runs the rental company and is a fantastic bloke, explains that my current car needs to be serviced. Could I accept a replacement?
Another 600 ccs of brutality
Kiyuna san’s hobby is restoring 50s and 60s American cars.
Chevrolet Impala – he keeps it in the office at the moment.
A big typhoon swept past but luckily not over the island this weekend. It was reasonably hairy with 70 knot winds. Poor boat.
The tail end.
Thank heaven for not sending torrential rain that would have filled up the boat.
A great joy over the last months has been the recovery of my tree. It had lain on its side in the blazing sun for several months, whilst I was in California and had evolved into a bundle of dried up sticks. He, she, it, they, fought back and with much care recovered remarkably.
Triffid has outgrown its once very large pot.
This is no good, the poor tree blows over in fairly mild breezes.
I track down a suitably large pot and transplant.
This demands many more bags of soil than I had anticipated.. The black pot in the foreground is what he, she, it, they came in.
I will start by recording progress on my fitness campaign. You will remember that I walk to nearby restaurants and gorge thus becoming fitter and stronger.
Standing and waitingThe heroes embark. Look at the colour of the sea.
Over the years I have learnt that the key to success is not muscle but the number of strokes per minute.
I take my amazing Nikon DSLR with pro lens and take lots of amazing photos. However, I manage to lose them all attempting to download them onto my computer! iPhone from now on. Anyway, such a lot of fun and I meet a lot of old friends.
I have to go for more root canal treatment, my hobby you know. This means a detour to the hard by Tomari Fish Market.
Pretty fishWhere did I go wrong?All over the place.
A man has got to make a living.We called these whelks as children in Scotland. Once boiled in sea water we hoiked them out of their shells with safety pins, which your Mother had brought for the purpose. You could also use sharpened heather twigs but safety pins were better. These are particularly big.Inside a Japanese dental clinic!
I am marooned on the island until my tooth is fixed = new crown etc. I feel the menace of increasing heat.
My phone is buzzing with warning emergency messages. They are in Japanese so I can only speculate. The loud speakers in the streets roar out messages. Finally a message in English comes over but I can’t understand due to the very metallic tone of the loudspeaker system. Is a huge tsunami heading straight at me? My apartment is about 5 meters above sea level.
What to do when you are in trouble? Go to Lawson’s of course! The ladies know me well and with patience and Google translate we establish that there has been an earthquake in the Philippines and the resultant tsunami will hit the beaches of Okinawa at 11:30.
I meter waves apparently
“What must I do?”
“Go to the mountains Neil san.”
“Are you going to the mountains?”
“Oh no, we must work.”
I do not go to the mountain but decide to go to my dentist appointment instead. I am in pain.
My good friend Kinjo sensei says there is much rot under a crown. It needs to be removed and root canal treatment initiated.
Kinjo sensei does not do this kind of low life dental treatment; reserving himself for implants.
Not to worry, a branch of his empire does this sort of stuff.
He fixes an appointment the same afternoon. Thank you Japan. In San Francisco it would probably take weeks to find a dentist taking new patients and then further time to actually get an appointment.
Whilst waiting to be seated chez Kinjo sensei, I look at my Facebook page. It is my niece’s birthday.
I ask if we can send her a Japanese birthday message. The Japanese are so playful and they all jump on the idea.
Where else but Japan?!
The Tomari fish market is adjacent. Several fish stalls have been converted into restaurants that are crammed with Chinese or maybe Taiwanese tourists.
The yen is so low!The Chinese love seafood
Anyway, I go to have root canal treatment done in a new dentist place.
The dentist name is Shinjo sensei.. He does the business and they charge me 1630 Yen which is $10.
My new favourite places are the fish restaurants beside the Ginowan Fishing Port. When not eating soba for lunch I eat there. They are only a skip and a jump from my salubrious apartment
Huge barn like place. I think there are four different restaurants.
I am the only non Japanese. The food is fabulous.
The menu.Today’s SpecialDeep fried oysters, 3 pieces of grilled fish, sashimi rice bowl, salad and pickles, black squid soup. So fresh, we are right on the fishing port. So good! 1500 yen, which is $9;38.Yesterday’s lunch. Sashimi, crab, salmon roe rice bowl with fish soup.
There is a Farmer’s Market at the far end of the restaurant space.
Packs of 2 potatoes.
Another great thing about the restaurant is that it is very close to the Yanmar store. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yanmar. I can have a memorable lunch and then pick up parts for my engine.
Air filter – it has seen better daysNew lamps for old. Hilarious Yanmar parts lady!
Anticipation is nearly always more thrilling than the act or event.
The tycoon was pretty good but not much more than that. I would call it a severe tropical storm.
Only the beginning
It started off quiet but Okinawa took it seriously. Schools, public transport supermarkets were all closed.
As the afternoon wore on things got worse.
View from my chair
Old age anxiety sets in as I realise that I had forgotten an important line that stretches the cover and keeps the leading edge flat on the cockpit roof. However, the wind has got up and I am too scared to drive to the marina to attach it, My Tanto is very light and easily blown around by serious wind.
The wind freshens
The most awful thing is that my dearly beloved barograph appears to have died. There is no comforting tic, tic, tic from the archaic clockwork system. This makes me sad.
Phew!!
Anyway, it was fun but not the real thing; 40 – 50 knot winds at best.
What delight to find that the barograph works! The absence of tic, tic, tic can be attributed to my much diminished hearing.
About 7 years ago,Tim gave me a plant. It was n’t very big and was in a tiny pot. It has gone through phases of prosperity and collapse that correspond to my presence or absence from Okinawa. When I got back from San Francisco in March, I found that the plant had fallen over and had spent months without water nor care. It looked like a bunch of dried sticks – very dead.
Nonetheless, I stood her up, watered and fed her: miraculously she is now thriving. This makes me very happy.
Taller than me now!
And you will hear of wars and rumours of wars. Typhoons and rumours of typhoons. Great excitement on the island as a typhoon is approaching. We love typhoons but have been badly deprived for 2 years. Luckily safety culture has not penetrated here. The folks are used to typhoons and wars. They are calm. The expat community however, is in a tizzy.
Looks like it will go right over us on Monday.
Typhoons are tricky, as those that are broadcast as deadly turn out to be feeble whereas those that are broadcast as feeble turn out deadly.
The great year for typhoons was 2012 when in 2 weeks we had 3 that drove the barograph off scale.
Those were the days my friend.
The barograph is the best measure of typhoon malevolence.
I install a new sheet to get some real data.
I go to the marina to shore up boat typhoon defences.
Brooding
The greatest risk for the boat is that the strength of the wind blows off the cockpit cover. The diluvian rains fill up the cockpit, the engine compartment and the boat sinks. I do what I can to reinforce the attachment of the cover with plastic cable ties.
You get the idea
Another potential disaster is the wind getting into the rolling jib, unrolling it and destroying the new sail with much thrashing. I tie up the jib with three lashings.
The new sail reels in much larger than the previous – typhoon destroyed – sail. Much more tempting to wind demons.
A delightful indicator of there being something up is the presence of Roseate Terns in the marina. They normally stay further out and indeed it is early in the year to see them at all.
Is n’t that something! Check top right for a millisecond!
Well, rainy season really. Ever since I got here in March, it has rained. Mostly fairly gentle stuff, but enough to give me an excuse for not doing much and also for the promotion of wonderful flowering trees.
Iju! the hillsides are covered.The hills are alive.This is called Getto, Shell Ginger in English, It is everywhere.Ancient Okinawa tree, recently pollarded. If you look carefully you can spot new growth. It will come back.
A slight diversion from rain: my goal during my stay in Okinawa is to gain weight. Subsequent to ailments I was left a bag of bones. After decades of doctors hectoring me with, “You must stop drinking, go on strict diet and be very miserable.” I now get,” Neil san you must eat and drink much more, especially very fattening stuff.”
I go on a soba binge. Luckily there are two restaurants that only serve soba within easy walking distance. I reason that the combination of the exercise walking to the restaurant and ensuing gluttony will be very good for me.
The first place is new. I think it has only been open for a couple of months. It opens only at lunch time and doles out wonderful steaming bowls of soba.
Yum! 3 different chunks of meltingly soft pork, tasty broth, a couple of slices of fishcake on top of perfectly cooked homemade soba. It is so good 1000 yen or $6 for amazing home cooked handmade food.
The second restaurant is ancient and famous, Soba Ya Gon.
So confident are they of their clientele that they have no sign – ‘Good wine needs no bush’ you know.
Spot the restaurant.
It is a wonderful place with adorable staff who grin and laugh their way through the day.
Menu. No hamburgers here.The best! You cannot see the noodles but all the soba is hand rolled on a maiden’s thigh.
I like to go to Soba Ya Gon as the itinerary reminds me of the triangular trade route, so much achieved with minimum effort. After wonderful lunch, I wander over to the Union supermarket. Union only does business in Okinawa I think. They only accept cash.
Tomomi san and Ichiro san ask me round for a birthday celebration meal.
Such fun!
Ichiro san paints me a birthday cardTomomi san makes me a birthday book.
We eat so well.
Octopus coctelIchiro san cooks an excellent paella.We drink the best wineWe eat, drink, laugh, watch the sun go down.So beautifulTomomi san makes me Cranachan! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cranachan
” Neil san, it is too hot . You must go home and rest. You look like man on T-shirt.”
Classic Kiyuna
I get up very early and head off to the Lily Fields of Ie Jima.
Ie Jima
The population of Ie Jima suffered terribly during the Battle of Okinawa. Basically nearly all of them were killed. War no good.
Wonderful Chinen san, who tried to teach me Okinawa dance many years ago, comes from Ie Jima
I am here to visit the Lily Fields. Every years thousands of lilies flower on the west coast of the island. It is a very popular excursion to go to see them.
I have been here many times. Previously all the lilies were white. Now they come in all colours. I do not think this is good.That’s more like it.Yellow Lilies
I think I am done with visiting things. Whether it be a cathedral, a shrine, a temple, a wonder of the world; I go ,”Oh that’s nice.” and then want to leave. This procedure usually takes about 10 minutes.
I catch the ferry back to the mainland. and go for lunch, which is the best part of any trip.