I have now been on the road for over 3 weeks. It has been pretty tough due mainly to the sub zero temperatures and snow, making it difficult to do anything away from the heat of the truck or the camper. My vision of evenings outside, cooking wonderful meals over a camp fire, looking up at the Milky Way turned out to be me huddled in the camper eating Spam sandwiches, watching my beer freeze.
But now I have come to Urique. The name must derive from Eureka. What a discovery!
It is a very small town on a river at the bottom of a deep canyon, one of the canyon complex known as Copper Canyon.. The temperature has changed from -15 in New Mexico to 27 degrees in Urique. I find the perfect campsite by the river, just outside town. I sit in my chair, watch birds and soak up the sun.
The site is essentially in the garden of a couple, Theresa and Luis. Luis actually says “Mi casa, su casa.”
The house is very rustic and there are turkeys and chickens everywhere. There are about 10 dogs and puppies, who are delighted to see me and beg to let them show me around.
Theresa washes my clothes and cooks me delicious meals, which I eat on their terrace overlooking the river. All cooking is done over an open wood fire and each meal is accompanied with hot, homemade tortillas.
Luis takes me to have my hair, unfortunately mainly ear, nose and throat, cut.
The main activity in town, is young men riding beautiful horses up and down the Main Street. They are incredible horsemen. The horses go sideways, backwards, they prance and stand quite still. The rider has very long stirrups and is essentially standing up. I am the only tourist. They are doing this as part of an elaborate courtship display I suppose. Well I am certainly impressed.
As I wait for the Internet cafe to open, three children come up to me and sell me bunch of cilantro.
The next time I see the older girl, maybe 8, she is driving a huge quad bike up the Main Street with another little girl, who is holding a baby, on the back.
A little further up the street a bunch of guys are butchering a pig.
I sit at my camp, watch the river and birds. I see a pair of Common Black Hawks, which despite their name are very rare. There are also masses of Black Headed Vultures, Great Blue Herons and Orioles. Alas no photos as my lens is not feeling well.
I think I will stay here forever.