American Influence

I go to Ginoza. I have had a message from a Swiss artist who has just finished an art, dance thing at the Garaman Hall

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Garaman+Hall/@26.4811794,127.9389929,10721m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m10!1m2!2m1!1sconcert+hall+near+Ginoza,+Okinawa!3m6!1s0x34e5009e6baf52f9:0xf7077421c428be3e!8m2!3d26.4811794!4d127.9771017!15sCiFjb25jZXJ0IGhhbGwgbmVhciBHaW5vemEsIE9raW5hd2GSAQtldmVudF92ZW51ZeABAA!16s%2Fg%2F1tg_jc_5?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTAxNi4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

The piece is called Kizuna https://garaman-works.com/works/works-14271/

I missed it but offered to drive Cedric to the airport as he was leaving the next day. So amazing to meet Cedric, to whom I gave a job at CERN 30 years ago, in the tiny town of Ginoza!

Just outside the apartment where I was to pick Cedric up, there is a carpet made from lots of brightly colored somethings.

Bottle tops!

The amazing Okinawan lady explains that there is a island-wide initiative to collect all the screw on tops from plastic bottles so they can be recycled. She washes hers!

Cedric, me, wonderful Okinawan lady. She is so funny!

The road South to the airport passes the rice/taro fields of Kin. We birdwatch.

Whiskered Tern flies.
Whiskered Tern has a little paddle.
Greenshank, a light year away, guzzles a caterpillar.
I think these are Pacific Golden Plovers but I am not sure.
Such fun to meet Cedric again: https://www.cedricbregnard.ch. Such a challenge to speak French again!

The next day, Arisa and I go for a traditional Okinawan breakfast.

She
Me

Can you spot the American influence on Okinawan cuisine?

I am still waiting for my new jib to arrive.

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New Cash

We Japanese still use cash a lot. Not as much as pre covid but significantly more than the States or Europe. In July new designs for the 10,000, 5,000, 1000 yen notes were released. Great excitement!

Old 10,000yen note.
New one.

It has taken a long time for the new bills to filter down into the system. It is only now that they are appearing regularly.

New one on top
Old one below!

I find them a bit disappointing. Japan has wonderful graphic art but these notes are super traditional. A more Manga approach would have been better.

I go the dentist for final fitting of the implant that replaces the molar that was untimely ripped in London earlier this year.

Big gap bottom left.
Freshly plugged
Spot the implant!

The dentist is of course just an excuse to go to nearby fish market.

Lots of Chinese gobbling shell fish and crab
Baby squid
Octopus in plastic bag

It is so difficult as I want to buy everything! I manage to control my gluttony a bit and leave with only a smallish octopus. This I eat with potatoes. https://www.kalofagas.ca/2022/11/14/galician-style-octopus/

Delicious and what’s more the new tooth works!

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Overcooked

Some birds for starters.

Black backed Stilt
Intermediate Egret in flight. I learned so much about photographing birds in flight when I was in Canada.
Same bird having a rest
Whiskered Tern [rare}. This is a great shot as they move very fast and twist and turn.

Anyway on to the main course. Old friends coming to eat and drink. The menu will be Sashimi, Octopus coctel, Leg of lamb and Japanese fruit.

Big Leg of lamb starts to defreeze.

The morning of the meal I get up early and zoom down to the Itoman Fish Cooperative https://www.google.com/maps/place/Itoman+fishing+cooperative+Fish+Center/@26.1381035,127.6587982,1344m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m14!1m7!3m6!1s0x34e567c221f4f19d:0x58162367592c3315!2sItoman+fishing+cooperative+Fish+Center!8m2!3d26.1380987!4d127.6613785!16s%2Fg%2F1td2k73b!3m5!1s0x34e567c221f4f19d:0x58162367592c3315!8m2!3d26.1380987!4d127.6613785!16s%2Fg%2F1td2k73b?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTAwMS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Best sashimi on the island presented on white scallop shells and wonderful oysters!

Joy
Okinawan family breakfasting on the best seafood.
I breakfast on one huge oyster
I prepare the lamb
I start to cook the octopus. It is huge, I can barely get in in my biggest pan!

The action starts; Arisa san, Tomomi san, Ichiro san are local but Mary and Tim are on a brief visit from London. We all worked together at OIST.

World’s best sashimi and oysters! (photo Hunt)

After the sashimi, we get stuck into the octopus coctels. We were all so engrossed that no-one took a picture. However like sailors dying of thirst we slurped down an enormous amount.

Next came the leg of lamb. The first time I have done a leg of lamb in the air fryer and I blew it. I left it in too long and the lamb was too dry. What a pity.

Overcooked
Tim and Mary look on in horror (photo Okubo)

Tim and Mary bring Fortnum and Mason choccies from London.

Classy
We eat them with Shine Muscat grapes from Nagano, thanks Tomomi san, and Japanese pears from Imari, thanks Arisa san.. Quality!

In the amazing canteen of cutlery there is a pair of scissors.

Grape scissors top right

I have only recently understood that they are grape scissors. Apparently it was not done to pluck individual grapes from a bunch. Small bunchlets were snipped off using grape scissors, transferred to a plate and then eaten one by one. I have never seen the grape scissors used in my 72 years.

Tomomi san makes history! First use of grape scissors for at least 70 years.
Self explanatory
Idem

All the wine comes from Hanada san’s amazing wine shop. Go there. https://www.google.com/maps/place/わいんや目福口福/@26.2911813,127.7768583,212m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x34e512c4d211b55b:0x934452cbee9f1490!8m2!3d26.291485!4d127.777237!16s%2Fg%2F1td3csdj?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTAwMi4xIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Tomomi san, Mary, Tim, me, Ichiro san, Arisa san. You could not find funnier, more talented, better looking companions!

What a great evening! Pity about the lamb.

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Octopus Overload

Next week I have invited old friends who are passing through and old friends who live here to dinner. We used to eat together frequently and I aim looking forward to another great bash.

A couple of years ago, actually nearly 4!

I want to serve octopus coctel, a Mexican cold dish of tomatoes, peppers, onion, cucumber, avocado, chopped up very small mixed with lots of tender octopus. You put the mix in a glass and fill it with Clamato. Delicious!

Buying octopus is a stressful business as sometimes there are none on offer at the fish market for weeks on end. I visit frequently but there are none to be had. There are only two fish stalls that sell them and they have been octopus free. I am getting nervous. I ask one of the fishmongers if he could phone me if he gets any. After 10 days there is no news. I fear that I will have to abandon my octopus dish.

However on Thursday, today is Saturday, post more dental fun that I will not bore you with, I rush through the fish market.

Sapristi! There is a beautiful very big octopus!

What beauty! Probably too big.

This afternoon I get a phone call. It is the other fish seller. “Neil san I have a beautiful octopus for you.”

I could not possibly tell him that I probably had more octopus than I needed and head down to Tomari harbor.

In the bag is an octopus that is bigger than the one I had already bought. Incidentally this guy is another Okinawan hero.

I walk back through the fish market and pass the other octopus seller. He has 3 wonderful octopi! I had to use enormous self control to not buy them all.

Never rains but it pours
No busses then 5 come at the same time.

More food stuff. There was an American food writer Antony Bourdain whom I find very pretentious but he got one thing right. Lawson’s is the best shop of all and in particular their sandwiches are addictive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1LOiRfMc08

They are always so fresh, soft white bread with a variety of fillings. They are so cheap.

My favorite – tuna and egg

I see Pacific Swallows sitting on the road. This is very unusual as they are normally zooming around at high speed.

Poor photo but it was very far away.

I feel so much happier with a stock of octopus.

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A Bit of a Let-Down

Typhoons always inject excitement into life in Okinawa. Typhoon prediction is not an exact science. Sometimes typhoons announced as mega awful turn out to be gentle. Typhoons predicted to be minor storms are sometimes howling craziness.

Typhoon Pulasan was expected over the weekend. At the marina, everyone gets busy setting up extra mooring lines and tying everything down. I spend hours preparing the boat.

Making sure the boat is super dry.

The cover used to be attached with elastic cord and hooks. Now I use rope, which is a pain to tie but will hopefully be stronger.

Lashed down

They don’t like tattoos at the marina.

I move all my plants inside.

Mushrooms. How did they get there?
Pacific Golden Plover has heard that a typhoon is on its way.
Bath tub , which I never use, filled with water in case the power goes off.

Usually the power goes off during the storm. The worst result is that, as water is pumped to the top of building and then flows down into each apartment, no power means no pump and thus no water. No water means no loo flushing. Things can get very unpleasant! A full bath and a bucket is essential.

Anyway, the typhoons heads north and misses the island completely. A bit of a let-down.

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Ear Wax

My hearing is impaired. I recognize the symptoms. Ear wax! I go to a nearby Ear Nose and Throat clinic hoping to get it removed.

” So sorry Neil san, reservations full. You will have to wait.”

” How long?”

“About one hour, I am so sorry.”

This seems pretty reasonable seeing that I have just walked in from the street.

“If you can come back at 09:00 tomorrow then the doctor will see you immediately.”

I should point out that this conversation was done on an iPad with a very good translation app. This technology has completely changed the experience of being abroad. You no longer need to speak a foreign language. Sad really.

I go back the next morning and sure enough I am seen straight away.

The doctor inserts a hollow probe that is connected to a suction pump in each ear and gently sucks out wax. There are six nurses who engage me with iPad conversation.

” Are you happy Neil san?

“Do you feel any pain?”

I am then taken to a side chamber where drops are , er, dropped into each ear. I have to wait 5 minutes on each side and then back to the doctor. He fiddles around with probes until he extracts a huge lump of wax from each ear. I can hear again! They charge me 800 yen.

Lustre Cleaning come to make the apartment sparkle. https://thequietripple.com/2020/09/27/baby-foot/

I go to find birds.

Black Faced Spoonbill So rare!
Only a few hundred in the World
Great White Egret, miles away.
Another Spoonbill
Grey Heron, again miles away. What a great lens!
Great White Egret in trees.
Moorhen

After my period of illness earlier this year year I am very feeble. I lost 20 kilos, principally muscle.

I used to go to a municipal gym that was just down the road.

Unfortunately the building closed to undergo total refurbishment. However, I find that the city has opened a much smaller gym in an adjacent building. Here I go to do very gentle exercise to try and regain strength. Mainly leg stuff.

View from cycling machine.

Apparently a new gym will open at the end of the month.

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Sausage Roll

The door bell rings and outside there is a smiling man. He shows me a lot of accreditation stuff and a sheet in English stating that he is from the Okinawan Electrical Safety Organization and is here to check my fuse box.

Everything is OK apparently.

They look after you so well in Okinawa. He also give me a booklet on electrical safety.

Typical playful approach to public information

Arisa gives me a beautiful bunch of of Shine Muscat grapes from her home town – Imari.

Thanks to Arisa’s Mum who sent the grapes from Imari to Okinawa.. They are too pretty to eat!

Just a year ago, the roller reefing system, or furler, for the jib, the sail at the front of the boat, was smashed up in a typhoon. Much investigation revealed that the original system could no longer be bought and that I would have to install a completely different set up. I had to track down a Japanese boat chandler that stock the necessary stuff. This I did; https://www.yuukoumarine.jp/pages/furlex50s. The nice shop on the mainland also sent a pdf of instructions on how to install the new furler. https://support.seldenmast.com/files/597-133-E.pdf. This sent me into a panic as it clearly way beyond my capabilities. “Don’t worry Neil san I will ask Jigen san to help you.” He has; he is a fantastic guy and speaks excellent English.

Yesterday we finally installed the new furler. Hooray! It has taken a year but it is true that I was in California for 6 months.

This should do the job.
We had to raise and lower the mast a couple of times
Last adjustments

It is beastly hot and humid and by the time we finished I’m drenched in sweat and dizzy.

However in recompense the water in the Marina is as clear as vodka. and teeming with fish.

Marinas are usually pretty dirty places – not Ginowan!
Amazing sight

I now have to wait for the sailmaker to cut a new jib. I feel this will probably take months as they have to source tan colored sailcloth. Japanese boats all have white sails.

Anyway, great progress. Big thank you to Jigen san without whom none of this would have been possible.

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Once More unto the Breach

Day after day.

It has been awful. So hot, so humid that going outside is misery. This means that very little is done unless you are in an air-conditioned space or in the car. It is like hibernation in reverse.

This means that the smallest event gains significance. Guests have started to complain about my frying pan. It is a very heavy cast iron thing that used to have beautiful red enamel on the exterior. It works great but looks unhygienic, hence the complaints.

I understand their concern.
I buy a very expensive Italian frying pan. Any money saved after the age of 70 is wasted.
It is wonderful

Only days after the extraction of two molars I return to the chair. This time it is an operation to screw in another implant. It is not much fun but better than being outside.

Guess what that is
Not a pretty sight. Spot new implant bottom left.

I change my car. The previous one had a 1000cc engine and was way too powerful for me.

Tanto – 600 cc of brutality. Nice primrose color.
Dinner tonight lamb and taro soaked in soy sauce and sugar

I spend a lot of time watching a demented Chinese guy scoff shellfish https://www.facebook.com/mnfoodtk It is astonishing.

I bite the bullet and contact Jigen san to see if we can make progress on setting up the jib roller reefing system. Then I could actually go sailing in the cool breezes that waft around Okinawa. To do this we have have to lower the mast, which is a fairly complex operation. Before that I have to take off all the typhoon protection stuff, cover, sail cover, bilge pump etc etc. This is really hard work as I had done a very good job lashing down everything possible. It is terribly hot. Sweat sprays out and my clothes are soaked.

Jigen san shows up and after a lot of discussion we succeed in lowering the mast. He shows no sign that the heat is bothering him whereas I think I am going to die.

No sign of sweat on his shirt.
Ready for the next step

Luckily, Arisa san suggests going to a local Yakitori place.

We drink lots of this. So cold!
Deep fried fish paste. I forgot to take photos of the chicken yakitori and the pigs feet .Sorry.

I hear that it has been exceptionally cold and rainy on the West coast of Scotland this year. Bliss

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Close to the Fish Market

Coming into Japan, the Immigration Officer points out that my Permanent Resident Card will soon expire. I go to the Immigration Office in Kadena. I dread much bureaucracy but they tell me to come back with my passport, a recent photo and ask me to fill in a very straightforward form. This I do and hand them over. The Immigration Man asks me to have a seat. I imagine that a dossier will be set up, sent to Tokyo and eventually return to Okinawa. A fee will be paid and I will eventually get a new card. Not so. Ten minutes later I am presented with a shiny new Resident Card!

Good through 2031!

My right eye aches and is red in the morning. I dread the the infamous uveitis. My doctor directs me to the Hayakawa Eye Clinic, which is just up the road.

Exciting shot of the reception desk.

Within 10 minutes a charming nurse sits me down in front of a series of eye diagnosis machines. We giggle a lot because I am so big that she has to alter the set up of each machine. I see the Opthalmologist a few minutes later. He clearly understands what is going on and explains, in perfect English, that my uveitis is still lingering but my eyes are OK for such an old man. He prescribes eye drops an I pay a risible charge.

How to get from the clinic to the pharmacy.
Twice a day

So destiny calls. I must lose two more teeth. Oh dear, this aging is not too much fun. At least they dress me up as a little flower prior to extraction.

A lonely little Petunia in the onion patch

The great thing about having your molars extracted is that the dentist is close to the Tomari Fish Market.

Blood is pouring into my mouth.
I get a a very fresh Octopus.

Not much about turquoise sea and breathtaking sunsets. It is so incredibly hot that airconditioning proximity is essential.

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Trivia

I have been back in Japan for just over a week and have done very little. This post is just to jog my memory in 10 years time, being that I am still alive of course.

The foundation for my inactivity has been meteorogical. At first, it was unbearably hot and humid, making it impossible to do anything more strenuous than lift chopsticks to lips. Then a typhoon blasts in; https://www.theguardian.com/world/article/2024/jul/25/taiwan-typhoon-gaemi-landfall-death-toll-path-tracker-latest-today. It is well South of us but it is very windy and tons of rain. Not good conditions for activity.

Notwithstanding, here is what happened.

My freezer arrives! Amazon, I love you.
Now freezing massive slabs of lamb in the ‘storeroom.’ This make me unreasonably happy
I get my boiling and ice cold water device, Get one too!

The moon is full.

Hand held new lens. No post production. Click on photo.

Breakfast with Ichiro san and Tomomi san.

Good friends
Traditional Japanese breakfast.

Ichiro san and I went on an epic trip to Hokkaido last year. We saw the very rare Blackiston’s Fish Owl. https://thequietripple.com/2023/02/11/more-eagles-than-sparrows/

Immediately after we had seen the owl for the first time, Ichiro san starts to sketch in the darkness of the shed we were sleeping in. It is 2 o clock in the morning. I was astounded. How could he make any kind of representation of a bird he had see for less than a minute, working in the pitch dark?

Anyway, he gave me the sketch, beautifully framed. I am touched.

Ichiro san is a star.

Tomomi san has designed a new fold out pamphlet about Ichiro san’s art. She is very talented. If you want one, I will get you one.

Wonderful
It folds out like a byubo.

Change of subject.

Medieval lamb chops! They turned out very well.
Apparently home butchery is a ‘ trending’ hobby. Time to work on my grimy cleaver methinks.

We go eat.

Amazing sashimi
Deep fried oysters.

Not much happening but a groundswell of happiness.

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