Hey Swede, Burn Me a Thick One!

We have 3 motorcycles and a scooter but if that was not enough manliness we now borrow Topher truck. We need it as James and I are headed upcountry to check out migrating geese and spot Bald-Headed Eagles. The idea is to visit 3 major goose spots or bumps;

The Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge

http://www.cawatchablewildlife.org/viewsite.php?site=180&display=q&gm=y

Tule Lake

http://www.fws.gov/refuge/tule_lake/

Modoc National Wildlife Refuge

http://www.fws.gov/refuge/modoc/

Over the Bay Bridge, up 80 onto 505 and finally 5 – lighting out for the territories. As we get to the Sacramento reserve, which is just South of Willows, the sunset sky is full of thousands of geese winging it back to the lakes to roost, having spent the day feeding in various fast food restaurants. It is a fabulous sight.

New Year's Eve party

New Year’s Eve party

How many rivers do we have to cross?

How many rivers do we have to cross?

After a quick visit to the lakes, we hole up in a Motel and seek out steak restaurant. “Hey Swede, burn me a thick one.” I cry on entering.   It is New Years Eve. James and I are in bed by 10:30.

2015 starts as we mean it to go on; with great vigor. We are up at 6:00 and back at the bird-watching lakes to see the dawn come up over the flocks of Snow Geese.

First moments of 2015

First moments of 2015

Cold Jack Rabbit making New Year resolutions

Cold Jack Rabbit making New Year resolutions

I am writing this in Osaka airport so do not have my book with me to identify this hawk

I am writing this in Osaka airport so do not have my book with me to identify this hawk. Later – the learned Zandra correctly identifies this as a Red Shouldered Hawk

The first sun of 2015. This was beautiful stuff.

The first sun of 2015. This was beautiful stuff.

Snow Goose drops from the sky

Snow Goose drops from the sky

Red Tailed Hawk sets off for a new year. Good hunting buddy.

Red Tailed Hawk sets off for a new year. Good hunting buddy.

Otter fun

Otter fun

Snow Goose

Snow Goose

After slaking our lust all morning, we head the truck northeast past Mont Shasta, which is a very fine mountain, to Lake Tule to take in the thousands of Geese and hundreds of Bald Eagles that hang out there.

You see me here, you see me there, you see me everywhere.

You see me here, you see me there, you see me everywhere.

This is remote California. Wide open country of forest and hill. We come across 3 Golden Eagles chowing down on road kill by the side of the road. They are big, magnificent birds that allow us to approach very close before flapping off indolently.

 I am vigilant

I am vigilant

As we approach Lake Tule we notice lots of white stuff that I have not seen much of during my now 4 years in Okinawa. When we get to the lake we notice that it is totally frozen over and of course all the geese and Bald Eagles have gone somewhere else. Hmmm, should have thought about that.

Bald Headed Eagle on frozen Lake Tule.

Bald Headed Eagle on frozen Lake Tule.

Are we dismayed? No! The scenery is so magnificent, we are just a few miles from Oregon, everyone drives a truck, to want more would be pure greed.

We drive truck to Alturas to find somewhere to stay and end up in the Hacienda Motel. When asked about restaurants, the motel man says, “ Well, I could cook you up some red potatoes and I got some beans I just made and biscuits of course. We got any of that chicken left honey? Yep ,we could serve it up with chicken.” We rudely turn down his offer fearing that he would engage us in conversation. James and I are lonesome cowboys.

First sunset of 2015, just a couple of miles from the Oregon border.

First sunset of 2015, just a couple of miles from the Oregon border.

It is the 1st of January. It is minus 14 centigrade. The town, such as it is, is closed. We finally find a Subway and buy big USA sandwiches stuffed with beef and salad and onions and olives and pickles. You buy Subway sandwiches by length, either 6 inches or 1 foot. Back in the hotel we turn up the heat, drink beer, eat our sandwiches, and watch TV about a Pawn Shop. We are invaded by a great sense of contentment.

Next day after a stonking bacon eggs hash browns, English muffin and gallons of coffee we drive out to the final destination.

I love America.

I love America.

This is the big one, the Modoc County Nature Reserve, renowned for its over-abundance of wildfowl, geese and Bald Eagles. Of course we know that it is a futile gesture as it is tremendously cold, earth is hard as iron and water like a stone. The lakes are solid; the wild geese have flown.

The US is still packed with wildlife

The US is still packed with wildlife

We head off into Nevada with a slight sense of disappointment but a huge sense of elation of having visited these incredible winter landscapes. This is the US of the cowboy and what’s more you can buy a house with an acre for $70,000. I think I will come back here, buy a house and gun and work as a volunteer ranger in one of the National Parks.

Deep frozen Modoc lakes.

Deep frozen Modoc lakes.

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Haight

So, where the boys ,and occasionally I, live in San Francisco is 2 blocks over from Haight Street. It is where we go for food,drink, shoe repair and stuff. Haight of course gained fame in the late 60’s as the epicentre of the hippy movement. It is true that Jimi Hendrix gave a free concert just in front of our house on the Panhandle. Anyway,Haight has retained some of the hippy stuff but has also gained lots of fascinating little shops and bars and coffee shops and stuff. There are lots of homeless, who by and large are harmless homeless, who just want to sell weed in peace. Most of them have Pit Bull Terriers, a breed of dog that has a very poor reputation in Europe, whereas here they all seem very cuddly.

We drink in the Golden Cane, a bar that has been there since 1910, which is a very long time around these parts. It is rough, friendly, serves liquor, many cheap beers and  no food.  The bartenders are big older guys who despite their conviviality refrain from the, “Hi my name is Mindy and I am your server.” style.

Forget the dinners. Now it is just drinks. I think this sign dates to a more elegant period of the Golden Cane's life.

Forget the dinners. Now it is just drinks. I think this sign dates to a more elegant period of the Golden Cane’s life.

Where Grace Slick drank

Where Grace Slick drank

The Pork Store is where we have breakfast. It is also an old place.

Two pork chops, eggs, hash browns, loads of coffee and iced water. Sets you up for the day.

Two pork chops, eggs, hash browns, loads of coffee and iced water. Sets you up for the day.

Where Bob Weir had breakfast

Where Bob Weir had breakfast

Here is a short movie of James and I going to pick up his boot.

http://youtu.be/jHwP9uqM1q0

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Ben’s Bikes

So, Ben like James has two motorcycles. Well, in fact he has one scooter and one motorcycle – both are Yamahas. The scooter is a 125 automatic clutch deal whereby you twist the throttle and off she goes. I used her a lot last time I was in San Francisco and she gained my total respect. However now she is sick. Who can blame her as Ben has run off with a sassy motorcycle called a Naked Rider! Poor, honest, faithful, if a bit plain, the scooter is abandoned. Hell, why should she run?

When I get in, I recommend that Ben has a serious talk with the scooter, offers a total makeover and promises to ride her more often. She agrees.

Scooter on the way to the Spa in Topher's truck.

Scooter on the way to the Spa in Topher’s truck.

The hot number that has entered Ben’s motorcycle world is stubby, 4 cylindered, needs warming up but once ready really zaps.

Ben on the Naked Rider

Ben on the Naked Rider

We get a call from the Spa saying that the scooter is her old self again and ready to rock.

We go to the Spa but James and I take he seats in the truck so Ben lies down in the flatbed and ponders his new life with the scooter. I think he will sell her down the river.

We go to the Spa but James and I take he seats in the truck so Ben lies down in the flatbed and ponders his new life with the scooter. I think he will sell her down the river.

And so it goes.

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Oye Como Va?

I get up and stroll through the Panhandle park to the Central Cafe for my morning coffee and Bagel.

Early morning Panhandle

Early morning Panhandle

This is a really good place-crazy people, great coffee, great food.

This is a really good place-crazy people, great coffee, great food.

James and I then set out on the two KLRs. It is the best day that there has ever been er weather-wise and come to think it more or less every other wise. We have two objectives; to pay homage to the Tamalpais High School where Tupac went to school and to drive up the coast to Point Reyes to take a tramp.

One bike is the sensational, almost brand new, open-pipe monster and the other is the broken framed but faithful one. Both go like hell and we take turns.

We memorably storm across the Golden Gate. Check out this Oscar candidate for best Go Pro of riding over the Golden Gate.

http://youtu.be/BxM83diIBtk

We then terrorize Sausalito before heading off to Mill Valley to have breakfast.

http://youtu.be/0pEYu422YxY

Bacon and eggs, english muffin, lashings of coffee

Bacon and eggs, english muffin, lashings of coffee

Having laid Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh at the gates of Tamalpais High School we head off over Mount Tam to Stinson Beach.

Does not look too ghetto to me.

Does not look too ghetto to me.

Winding mountain road flanked by huge redwoods, through which the blue, blue sky is downdropping, to the accompaniment of raucous “Blappa, blappa,blappa, bang, bang!” of James’ custom exhaust system. Then up the coast to Point Reyes.

Sinuous rill

Sinuous rill

We look for mushrooms and birds.

Mushroom

Mushroom

Bird

Bird

We drive back down the coast with the sun going down over the ocean. We recross the bridge, zoom through town and home for a nice cup of tea. A truly glorious day.

Then music in the Plough and Stars

Then music in the Plough and Stars

Can you believe this? It was $4.50 when I left in 2008.

Can you believe this? It was $4.50 when I left in 2008.

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Born to be Wild

A truck backed into James’ Kawasaki and amongst other stuff, fractured the frame. The truck insurance came good and offered him a whole pile of loot. Concurrently I got a cheque from the California Tax folks. Yes, it was a rebate for over 6000 bucks for overcharges incurred during a massive tax snarl up engendered during the exodus from France in 2010. Tidings of great joy.

James and I go to Wells Fargo to cash it in.

All $100 bills!

All $100 bills!

Anyway James has tracked down a 2013 Kawasaki KLR650 in Monterey. We go down to station on the broken bike, James hops off and I am set loose in San Francisco on a 650 with a broken frame on the most beautiful day. What could be better?

Wheee!

Wheee!

Whang!

Whang!

Bobby! Should I take 'em to the bridge? (Go Ahead!) Take 'em on to the bridge! (Take em to the bridge!) Should I take 'em to the bridge? (Yeah!) Take 'em to the bridge? (Go Ahead!) Hit me now!

Bobby! Should I take ’em to the bridge?
(Go Ahead!)
Take ’em on to the bridge!
(Take em to the bridge!)
Should I take ’em to the bridge?
(Yeah!)
Take ’em to the bridge?
(Go Ahead!)
Hit me now!

The KLR650 is a single cylinder machine and as far as I can see is the world’s best motorcycle. For blapping around the hills of the city there is certainly nothing to beat her. She has great torque and in more or less any gear you just open the throttle and she goes “Thwacka,thwacka, braaaaaaa!” and you are launched off in a sort of catapultish way.

James gets home late at night after a freezing drive up from Monterey. The new bike is incredible, jet black and gleaming in the streetlights. He says,”Try it.” I say “I don’t have a helmet.” He says “So don’t get caught.” The new bike has special custom exhaust that makes a lot of noise. I surge of into the night and blast around the Panhandle block. Wow, I am young and free!

The best bike in the world beside her ugly old sister

The best bike in the world beside her ugly old sister

Ding dong merrily on high.

Ding dong merrily on high.

In Dulcio Jublio

In Dulcio Jublio

What fun.

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Sweet Baby Jesus

After a late night festive session of root canal fun with my friend Mori sensei on Christmas Eve, I awake on Christmas Day and prepare myself for a marathon celebration of the birth of Sweet Baby Jesus. I take my morning tea on the roof overlooking the East China Sea. It is warm enough to do so only in a towel.

My new tea cup and saucer made by Omine sensei.

My new tea cup and saucer made by Omine sensei.

It is a normal working day and as I ride the cab to the airport I reflect on how restive it is not having been bombarded with festive stuff for weeks. It is now a beautiful day and I board the Tokyo flight after a Soba lunch in jeans and Tshirt.

Blue skies over Naha airport. Hosanna.

Blue skies over Naha airport. Hosanna.

We cruise up to Tokyo whilst I listen to Decline and Fall on my IPad.

Festive Fuji

Festive Fuji

I spend just enough time in the lounge at Narita to get gently soporific.

ANA is the best airline.

ANA is the best airline.

Trundle across the Pacific through the night watching stuff on the IPad. The plane had no screens but an app,which gave you access to a trillion movies etc on your computer, tablet,  or shoe by means of onboard wireless.

I am amongst the first to immigration. It takes 3 minutes to get through. My bag appears instantly and 15 minutes after touchdown I am in a cab hurtling down 101 into the heart of the city.  The weather is glorious. I love air travel.

Christmas Day on the Panhandle just outside the house. James' bike of which more later.

Christmas Day on the Panhandle just outside the house. James’ bike of which more later.

It is 11:00 on Christmas Day. We go for coffee,  we exchange presents, we go to a bar,  we drink amazing Californian beer, James cooks lamb with roasted roots, we are festive. Long live Sweet Baby Jesus, I sure enough worshipped his birth long time this year.

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Ben’s Shisa

When in pairs, the left shisa traditionally has a closed mouth, the right one an open mouth. The open mouth wards off evil spirits, and the closed mouth keeps good spirits in.

So Ben made a shisa, with some instruction from the amazing Yamada sensei, the first time he came to Okinawa. It had an open mouth thus it kept bad spirits away. However I did not have a shisa to keep good spirits in. This is entirely consistent with the wreck of Dileas. There was such joy but it slipped away because there was no shisa to retain it.

Ha ha,  now I begin a new era of happiness and joy. I have the second shisa!

Yamada sensei, the world's greatest ceramicist, well around here, with Ben's shisa.

Yamada sensei, the world’s greatest ceramicist, well around here, with Ben’s shisa.

Here is some of his stuff

Here is some of his stuff

Ben spend a couple of days with Yamada sensei during his visit in August and made the second shisa. It is beautifully done. It dried in Yamada’s workshop and once ready he glazed it and fired it in the mighty nobori-gama.

This is his nobori-gama

This is his nobori-gama

I went to pick it up today. Miwako is going to have her second baby tomorrow! I think she should wait for Xmas day.

The new one is on the right

The new one is on the right

I have the best Shisa in Okinawa.

I have the best Shisa in Okinawa.

Thanks Ben!

No more happiness and joy can escape from Tigh na Mara. Time to buy another boat!

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Just For Me

I don’t care if y’all want to look at this but here are some birds that I saw today.

I love Sunday

I love Sunday

Pintails

Pintails

Kentish Plover complaining

Kentish Plover complaining

Rock Thrush

Rock Thrush

Dabchick

Dabchick

I don't like sponge cake

I don’t like sponge cake

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At the Donkey and Crown Where He Drank Every Night

KING LEAR

You scholars of English one question I’ll ask
To answer you won’t find a difficult task
Of Shakespeare’s great heroes, which one would you pick
To award him first prize for being totally thick
Othello you know was a gullible dupe
And Hamlet’s delaying landed him in the soup
But the stupidest moron in all of Shakespeare
Was that old King of England, the man they call Lear

Three daughters he had in the course of his life
Although we’re not told what befell his poor wife
I’ll bet she ran off to avoid going insane
After years of enduring that pompous old pain
At the Donkey and Crown where he drank every night
The locals all knew poor old Lear wasn’t bright
When they said your “Royal Highness we love and revere”
The old fool lapped it up and bought everyone beer

At the age of four-score and in fear of expiring
King Lear told his girls he intended retiring
Of loss of his faculties sadly he moaned
As if he could forfeit what he’d never owned
He said that his kingdom he planned to partition
Provided his daughters fulfilled one condition
“Before I hand over this rich legacy
You must tell me how much you admire me,” said he

Now the two eldest daughters named Goneril and Regan
Knew well what he wanted, so promptly they began
To swear how they always did love and respect him
They thought that the sun rose each day from his rectum
Says Cordelia the youngest, being honest and true
“Can’t you see Da they’re taking the piss out of you”
King Lear lost the head and began to scream at her
But still she refused her old father to flatter

Then says the bold Lear, “I swear on my honor
I’ll split my estate between Regan and Goneril
I’ve nothing for Delia, not land nor finance
She can pack her belongings and shag off to France”
If that wasn’t enough that pathetic old jerk
Left himself without home, without income or perk
The two vixens took all and their Da the old dunce
Was to lodge in their houses in alternate months

These daughters of course were both nasty old shrews
But in fairness King Lear gave them every excuse
His boiled eggs were too hard or his gravy too thin
Or he got too much tonic and not enough gin
So they both found their Dad an unbearable bore
Ere the first month was over they showed him the door
In those far-off days there was no county home
So old Lear like a tramp ’round the country did roam

Up to this he was lacking in guile and in craft
But now the old geezer went totally daft
He ran through the fields and he crawled through the bogs
He was screaming and howling and barking at dogs
But in spite of his faults and ridiculous foibles
He still had a band of devoted disciples
Young Edgar was there and the loyal Duke of Kent
And a man called ‘the fool’, quite a sensible gent

One other wayfarer I’ll add to this roster
Twas Edgar’s blind father, the old Duke of Gloucester
He disowned his son who he thought was untrue
In fact Lear and himself were of equal IQ
Then they heard the news as they wandered all over
Cordelia arrived off the ferry in Dover
Being now Queen of France she assembled an army
Avenging her Da though she heard he was barmy

So thousands of men in the battle were slaughtered
And victory it went to the two vicious daughters
But they never got to be powerful and rich
Overcome as they were by a lecherous itch
For Edgar’s half-brother they both wished to own
The same man for the power of his pelvis was known
So one of them poisoned the other one’s lager
Then did herself in with a seven-inch dagger

Since tragedies must have their audiences crying
There followed a terrible outbreak of dying
Edgar stabbed his half-brother, that devious old crook
And the shock killed his Daddy, that’s Gloucester’s old Duke
Cordelia was hanged by a treacherous jailer
Lear died when it struck him that he was a failure
If he only had snuffed it a few years before
He’d have saved everybody all this suffering and gore

Well, I guess that about sums it up.

There are festivities to mark the moving on of Poncie, Sean and Charlie. Charlie had already gone so we made a voodoo Father Christmas doll to whom we could address the farewell panegyric.

Hisashi, Arisa, Charlie, Rie

Hisashi, Arisa, Charlie, Rie

The event was again defined by wild craving for meat. There was a huge turkey and a massive leg of lamb. I could feel a restless stirring amongst the guests before the meat was furnished forth. They could smell it cooking and several started involuntarily jerking their heads over their right shoulders in flesh-tearing fashion.

Getting very restless

Getting very restless

Luckily Amy took control and forced the mob to wait their turn. I hate to think what could have happened had she not done so.

Amy owns the meat

Amy owns the meat

Of course every last shred was devoured, washed down with Okinawan Colon Cleansers, the only cocktail constructed around a whole banana.

Meat frenzy

Meat frenzy

Spot the banana

Spot the banana

Very well behaved dog

Very well-behaved dog

So bye-bye Poncie, Sean and Charlie

Will ye no come back again?
Will ye no come back again?
Better loed ye canna be;
Will ye no come back again?

www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o0NUmNNffM

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Tradition

If you go to the entry of December 14 2013 you will find this photo.

National Health

National Health

Today is December 15 2014.

Same pain , same sweater

Same pain , same sweater

It has become a Xmas tradition to get terrible toothache on this same day.

I go to Mori sensei. He rips  off a Californian crown, “Very expensive ne?” Intones the formulaic strophe,” Much pusu! Root canal!”

He gives me lots of antibiotics and painkillers.

Homeopathic

Homeopathic

Anyway, what can you expect if you sleep in a house that was built over an untimely felled Rowan tree?

Here is a good song.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNdbPf8IFKE

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