Fings Ain’t Wot They Used to Be

The thing about bird watching is that you never really know what is going to happen. It is very humbling in that just when you think you have grasped  a situation, you realize that you are in fact too dull of spirit to understand what is really going on. In this way it is a very good lesson in life – never assume that you have understood what is really happening around you.

Today was a good example. I went to the “Paddy Fields of Kin”, listen to a version of the famous reel played by Josie McDermott. He follows it with “The Whiskered Tern on the Gate”.

I drove around for a while and saw lots of egrets, which are  as common as ditch water around these parts.

Intermediate in foreground, Little in background

Intermediate in foreground, Little in background

I whine to myself on the leitmotif of “Fings ain’t wot they used to be.” I used to see amazing birds here but now it’s just egrets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg-Ycc-yKqY

How wrong can you be. I spot a Moorhen swimming towards a clump of grass in a flooded field. Suddenly two moorhen chicks scuttle out from said clump and swim out to meet their Daddy.

They turned our local Palais into a bowling alley

They turned our local Palais into a bowling alley

Have you done your homework? You can see the Mum sitting on the other chicks on the left

Have you done your homework? You can see the Mum sitting on the other chicks on the left. Click on this photo.

I then spy a bird sitting on a post. I get closer and closer. It does not fly off. In fact I get really close and I think it does not fly off because it is totally knackered. It is rare Whiskered Tern that must have been blown here by the inclement rainy season weather.

"Oi, do me a favour."

“Oi, do me a favour.”

Er so the message is that any definition of reality is wrong. There is always something more complex going on but we are usually to slow or arrogant to realize it.

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007

Time to get my driving licence renewed. A licence here only has a lifespan of 2 years. They are called hamster licences. My original getting of a license was much facilitated by Rei san who showed me what to do. We also did it at the Naha branch of the Okinawan DMV. You can read about that little cameo here:

https://quietripple.wordpress.com/2012/01/18/licensed-to-drive/

Now I am a big boy and can do it all by myself. This time I go to the Okinawa City branch. Very different experience as the office is buried in a maze of streets and without the many people showing you how to get there I would frankly have failed. Having been indicated where to park, I am smilingly directed towards a building.

Purgatory

Purgatory

I go into this building, whereupon the young lady behind the desk smilingly indicates that I should leave by the back door and proceed to another building.

Cockles and Mussels alive, alive oh.

Cockles and Mussels alive, alive oh.

Having filled in a lot of forms and having had my photo taken, I am told to go to the dreaded Room 10.

I promise

I promise

And all men kill the thing they love,   By all let this be heard, Some do it with a bitter look,   Some with a flattering word, The coward does it with a kiss,   The brave man with a sword!

And all men kill the thing they love,
By all let this be heard,
Some do it with a bitter look,
Some with a flattering word,
The coward does it with a kiss,
The brave man with a sword!

The initial ritual over, I am seated in Room 10. Our Sensei comes in and introduces himself with great formality.

He then launches into a speakathon of which I gather bits and pieces. The setting is 1980s. The idea that Japan is the epicentre of technological white light, white heat is incorrect.

Room 10

Room 10

Suddenly the lights go out and we are shown a movie. A young man plays with his children and kindly resolves family disputes. He is very much-loved by his wife who waves him goodbye  as he sets off to work. Unfortunately on the way to work, the central character knocks over and kills a man on a scooter.

Shandy Hall

Shandy Hall

He is arrested.

Are you going to come quietly?

Are you going to come quietly?

This is a great film. I sit here at 9:00 am entranced.

He is jailed, through shame, his wife goes to live with her family and retires to bed.

I never loved you

I never loved you

This is when it get really weird. Our hero goes to visit the family of the guy he kills. He falls in love with the wife, who of course hates him. He gives her a magic talisman because of which, she understands that  he is really her brother from a marriage that her Mother  never spoke of.

She, in turn, falls in love with him but how can she tell her kids that the man who killed their Father, for whom she entertains base physical yearnings, is really their Uncle?

Holy Cow!  Euripides in Okinawa City.

She spurns him and he is left on the street where he killed the scooterist, surrounded by a chorus of harpies and children. Phew!

Any way after 2 hours of Greek Drama, I am formally awarded my new licence by a policeman in full uniform.

Drive like the wind

Drive like the wind

 

Hai!!

 

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Sag mir wo die Blumen sind, Wo sind sie geblieben?

So I am 62. A totally busy period comes to an end with a birthday. People are very nice to me. Thank you.

"Why are you so old and fat and why don't you like sponge cake?"

“Why are you so old and fat and why don’t you like sponge cake?”

I am actually growing younger in Okinawa. My eyesight is much better and my hair is growing back. Admittedly, principally through my ears and nostrils but I think this is a trend that will spread to the cranium.

Birthday back of truck

Birthday back of truck

I have been working hard recently,  concentrating mainly on two documents that had to be presented to our Board Of Governor as what was meeting last week. I do not know why I do this. Why don’t I just get a job where I can shovel sand into a wheel barrow and push it somewhere to upend the  barrow and so create a nice big pile of sand?

I get exactly the same schoolboy, ” I haven’t done my homework” dread that I had when I was eight.  I do not know what happened to me when I was a child but I have recurring dreams of failing exams because I haven’t done the work, of not having completed something important because I had forgotten about it, of making love to my truck – you know the sort of thing.

Mädchen pflückten sie geschwind Wann wird man je verstehen

Mädchen pflückten sie geschwind
Wann wird man je verstehen

Anyway, May is tomato month in Okinawa. Our vegetables are still seasonal. You can buy stuff out of season in some super markets but basically people don’t and our diet is determined by what is ripe.

Let's Call the Whole Thing Off

Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off

May is also butterfly month. Does anyone know what species this is?

May is also butterfly month. Does anyone know what species this is?

Good neighbor Mark gives me loads of beer. These are just a few.

Good neighbor Mark gives me loads of beer. These are just a few.

Tara passes by on her rusty bike.

Could be Cork

Could be Cork

Good birthday.

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It’s, Like, a Stroll Away from New Orleans.

Juna does a water colour of the view from the front room.

This is a nice place to live

This is a nice place to live

We go for a little stroll.

The Clean Beach

The Clean Beach

Shells in the bottom of a red bucket

Shells in the bottom of a red bucket

Paparazzi suck

Paparazzi suck

Fecundity

Fecundity

I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times.

I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times.

This is a Kingfisher

This is a Kingfisher

 

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Noah

After two beautiful days, Golden Week turned Biblical with intense downpours. All sorts of things happened. The mysterious tunnel that emerges near my house revealed itself as a very effective storm drain.

I remember a story as a child of a river of gold. I wish I could remember where it came from.

I remember a story as a child of a river of gold. I wish I could remember where it came from.

 “If gold rusts, what then can iron do?”


“If gold rusts, what then can iron do?”

Of course to those who have been infected, floods mean one thing – birds flushed from reed cover. Take I  with my cromack to Nagahama dam close by. There is an area of reeds below  the dam which sure enough is totally flooded and usually secretive birds are forced to dance on tables for all to leer at.

Miss Night Heron

Miss Night Heron

Any way from the corner of my eye I spot a tiny bird scuttering around the stone breastwork way off in the distance.  A whole bunch of neurons fire and I take some photos. I know something important is happening. What is this bird?  I can hardly see it due to the distance between he/she and me but I instinctively tremble. I am like a hunting dog that see squirrels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y34NSUbEjY

Baillon's Crake

Baillon’s Crake Like whoa!

This is a very rare bird. It only comes to Okinawa on migration and then spends 24 hours a day skulking in reeds playing computer games and interacting less than a neutrino. I however, have seen one! This means more to me than I think any of the usual metrics of success. I was there!

Nagahama Dam in spate

Nagahama Dam in spate

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Dai-Sensei

So I have guests, Carlos, Juna, Kanako and Ryu Ichiro come to stay. This is the best fun. It has been a long time since I have had young children living with me.This is the best fun.

Eat squid

Eat squid

The weather is fantastic. Boating.

Little blue boat

Little blue boat

Blue

Blue Boat 2

Breakfast

Breakfast

Kanoko Dai-sensei is a very good cook. Her speciality is octopus.

Freshly pulled from the East China Sea

Freshly pulled from the East China Sea

A huge samurai grasshopper comes to stay on one of the windows. It is about 3 inches long.

Exquisitely interlocking armour

Exquisitely interlocking armour

Kanoko Daisensei also cooks fish

Kanoko Dai-sensei also cooks fish

DSC_0344

MORE!

Ryu Ichiro likes to fight and drink beer. Both children eat like sharks, which I find particularly pleasing. You put a big mess of stewed octopus in front of them and they woof it down with “Ochis” of enjoyment.

 

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Stirrings

The island is definitely stirring. Summer is coming and with that loads of tourists. In fact this is the start of Golden Week when Japan takes off. The hotels are sprucing themselves up.  One near me has anchored two of the strangest looking craft just off their beach. They are clearly diving platforms but their design is pleasingly nuts.

Floating pumpkins?

Floating pumpkins?

On closer inspection they are clearly floating goya.

On closer inspection they are clearly floating goya.

Cattle Egrets have Summer plumage.

Cattle Egrets have Summer plumage.

Bees  are buzzing.

Bees are buzzing.

Anyway all these blue sky photos actually give a false impression as it rained like crazy on Sunday night. Ah boats, you can never relax with a boat. I have installed a mooring in front of my house to which I will be able to attach Dileas. At the moment little blue boat is there tethered.

At high tide the mooring is quite far from the shore and the water is deep.

At high tide the mooring is quite far from the shore and the water is deep.

I come home last night to high winds and rough seas. Of course I immediately check on the boat. To my dismay she is on the point of sinking. She must have filled up with rainwater, lowering her in the water, allowing  the rough seas to  break over her thwarts.

I spring into action and swim out with a bucket.

It is dark because it is night, the wind howls, huge breakers crash over my head and I can hardly breathe so dense is the driving rain. Well not quite but you get the idea.

I bail out all the water with difficulty as she is very low in the water. If I hold onto the boat, she tilts and the East China Sea pours in. I have to tread water and bail with a bucket at the same time.

I swim home.  I feel good. I feel stirred. The boat rides the waves swan-like again.

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It’s a hap-hap-happy day. Toodle-oodle-oodle-oodle-oodle-lay. The sun shines bright and the world’s so right.

It turns out that Okinawa is the best place in the world to buy second-hand outboard motors. I go visit my old sidekick Chinen-san, from whom I bought my first boat. He does business from a broken down hangar place that is full of broken down engines and general boating detritus. Ah heaven!

We discuss various Dileas propulsion options with help from the graceful Arisa-san.

Elegant Arisa with determined Chinen san

Elegant Arisa with determined Chinen san

We plump upon a 4hp Tohatsu, which he swears has only been in the water for toilet purposes and is as good as new. We test it in his test tank that is sunk into the soil so we all have to squat. This is a desperately uncomfortable position for me to work on an engine but Chinen-san , who must be about my age, is clearly totally at ease.  All this stuff about cancer and such,  I feel western health would be much enhanced by making us maintain flexibility into old age by working on outboards while crouching.

Yoga

Yoga

Anyway we tune her up and talk about replacing a leaking tank and general outboard stuff. I wonder if, at the age of 62, I will finally acquire an outboard that will start, tick over and generally perform. All previous experience with the race predicts otherwise.

We have lots of fun

We have lots of fun. Check out my truck in the background.

So all this made this a very good day – my truck, a new motor, outboard talk, graceful companions, witty Okinawan mechanic plus a mystery ingredient which I will now reveal.

Yay! Lead science story in the Economist.

Yay! Lead science story in the Economist.

http://www.economist.com/news/science-and-technology/21601230-using-robots-model-evolutionary-conundrum-robocopulation

Chinen san says he does not read the Economist but that he likes my truck.

Chinen san says he does not read the Economist but that he likes my truck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZCPXWQt61U

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Three Men in a Boat.

So the time has come. Harry, Tsumoru and I take the boat to the harbor. It is the best day, blue sky, turquoise sea, healthy wind. Truck pulls the boat and trailer supports it. We rig Dileas and everything goes just fine.

What a nice trailer.

What a nice trailer.

We then back the boat down the launching slip. I say we advisedly as I failed embarrassingly and Tsumoru had to take over.   It is very difficult to reverse a trailer but Tsumoru recently won the Budker prize for which tractor driving experience is an imperative. http://www.oist.jp/news-center/press-releases/oist-prof-tsumoru-shintake-awarded-gersch-budker-prize

Fare ye well, lovely Nancy, for I must now leave you. I am bound to th' East Indies my course for to steer. I know very well my long absence will grieve you, But, true love, I'll be back in the spring of the year."

Fare ye well, lovely Nancy, for I must now leave you.
I am bound to th’ East Indies my course for to steer.
I know very well my long absence will grieve you,
But, true love, I’ll be back in the spring of the year.”

We decide that we should take Dileas for a little spin around the harbor to judge how well the tiny 2 hp Chinese motor would drive the mighty ark. Tsomoru and I set off and things go fairly well. Once the motor established its dominance over inertia we moved forward quite nicely. Suddenly, the motor lost all power. It continued to run but the propeller did not turn. Oh dear, the worst was happening, the wind was driving us onto a lea shore made of expensive fishing boats. Of course lots of people were watching.

We manage to avoid the huge rocks that dominate the harbor but,  powerless, we did indeed crash into the boats. No harm done and we managed to tie up. Looking at the engine it soon became clear that a rope that was destined to pull down the rudder had snarled the propeller. This sort of thing always happens and I actually quite enjoy it.

We take deep breaths and, having freed the propeller, decide to try again. The motor starts and we push off. However the wind instantly blows the bows around and we are  beam on to the wind and waves. It soon becomes clear that the motor does not have enough grunt to push the bows around into the wind and sure enough we  crash back into the expensive fishing boats.

I will have to get a more powerful motor.

Anyway using the painter, we pull Dileas back around the harbor in a very undignified way and get back to the launching slip. Dileas slips back onto the trailer very willingly and truck hauls her up the slip uncomplainingly.

Are we downhearted? - No !

Are we downhearted? – No !

So we take Dileas home and drink ice cold tea.

I then go snorkeling in front of the house.

The water is warm again

The water is warm again

Sea cucumber

Sea cucumber

Sunburn,  er burns as I write this. Summer time is here. Dileas has been in the water and all is well.

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Haste to the Wedding

Tommy, guitar player in the best traditional Irish music band on Okinawa, gets married. I went sulkily as I blamed the wedding for not giving me enough time to go sailing. It took me an hour and a half to drive there down endless narrow roads with traffic lights every 10 metres. By the time I arrived I was frazzled and in a bad mood. Of course the Okinawans cured that in no time at all.

I had the best time! This wedding was unlike anything I have ever experienced and at my time of life novelty has a special value.

Tommy and Yuki do Hollywood

Tommy and Yuki do Hollywood in first costumes.

It is theatre, very carefully choreographed, with frequent change of costume. First the happy couple feed each other. This is projected on the huge screens that festoon the hall.

Eat cake

Eat cake!

There is then a series of acts. Everyone is hooting and clapping and generally having an excellent time.

Kill Bill

Kill Bill

Traditional Okinawan Belly Dancing

Traditional Okinawan Belly Dancing

Then there is a movie about the childhoods of Tommy and Yuki. Everyone dies with pleasure.

Tommy at school

Tommy at school

The happy couple meanwhile have been in the make-up room. They make a triumphant reappearance in outrageous costumes.

Look at that dress!

Look at that dress!

The happy couple then go around each table  to greet us all and light a candle. The candle represents global warming, er maybe.

The time to hesitate is through

The time to hesitate is through

Then it is time for traditional Irish music, which of course is de rigueur at Okinawan weddings.

I am the only Gaijin in the 300 or so at the wedding

I am the only Gaijin in the 300 or so at the wedding. Actually Gerard is also a Gaijin but he has been here for decades and is like honorary Okinawan

Everyone goes wild

Everyone goes wild

Then all their friends rush on dressed as schoolgirls. Both men and women are dressed as schoolgirls. You can recognize the men by their large breasts.

They must have been practicizing the dance routine for weeks.

They must have been practicing the dance routine for weeks.

I love the Japanese!

I love the Japanese!

What a great night. God bless you Tommy and Yuki.

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