It has long been an ambition to sail up to Seragaki harbor and there take amazing photos of rare terns, er Roseate and Black Naped.
In previous years there has been a maelstrom of terns. Hundreds of pairs nesting on the rock outside Serigaki. So I go there by sail, anchor, take the best photos ever .
Unfortunately, this year few or no terns are on the island. I have driven up there several times to check. There are few terns
Notwithstanding, I set off this morning with the firm belief that hundreds of terns will have arrived overnight.
I hope
The wind is coming straight offshore at 30kph. Perfect as I reach all the way up to Seragaki in less than 2 hours. It is hot. Sun scorches skin.
I sail from little blue dot to little mauve pin
Complex tacking to get into the harbor but I know the Scaffie well.
Let’s go crazy with the Terns
There are no terns. I knew this, but my dream said otherwise.
There is actually one Black Naped Tern and he does not like me being in his hood. He attacks me vigorously as I walk around.
This my hood
Beautiful bird
So, I row out after a less than dreamlike visit to Serigaki.
Eton
The wind is strong offshore and I hurtle home.
The best place to be on a hot Okinawan Saturday is in a sail boat
I do not know what I have done to offend the Shinto Sea Seniors but each time I sail home they change the wind just as I am nearing home. I am thundering home, dreaming of food and very, very, cold drinks when the wind disappears, only to re-appear from the South West. South West means blowing directly from where I want to go.
You have no idea how character forming it is to beat back and forth over the last 10% of a sailing trip. Especially after 5 hours at sea in the hot, hot sun.
Anyway half way across Tancha Bay, I unzip my diving bag to get water. The zip breaks. It is a very important moment. I have talked about this bag before.
https://quietripple.wordpress.com/2011/04/23/one-of-the-lads/
She has been with me through all the tortuous struggles of my life. She has been big enough to hold all my possessions at earlier stages, my sons have lain in her as babies, I recently, like 2 weeks ago, went on a business trip and my stuff was perfectly encapsulated in my Spirotechnique bag. I own nothing that I acquired before this bag, which I acquired in 1975 in Oran, Algeria.
But her zip has gone so she is trash.
Boo Hoo. At least she died at sea.
The Quiet Ripple Defines The Pond 
Seems to me you do a pretty good number with the Sea Gods – we have just done the South Coast with nothing but headwinds. Do you use an app called Predictwind? There is another called Wind Guru, between them they usually get it right. What is a “hood” – where he hangs out I guess. Still grey and chilly here as befits the situation we are in.
Aha I will try them, Thanks. Sorry to hear that you were against the wind. Mind you the boats you sail in probably do pretty well in headwinds. The Scaffie basically goes into reverse. Hood is contraction of neighborhood I believe.
Neil-
That was a pretty long sail in the Scaffie. I am working on how to effectively tack in my Scaffie, and I’m having limited success. Sorry about the missing terns and your long-lived dive bag. Fine memories of your bag’s uses over the decades, especially with your sons. You are correct on your understanding of the origin of “hood.” The sunset shots are quite stunning; is there something about the environment of Okinawa that make the sunsets so amazing? How about the sunrises? Finally, what kind of camera do you use? Thanks.
Lew
Hi Lew,
I have an old Nikon D300 – a fantastic camera. I use a Nikon 24-85 lens for the sunsets.
The sunsets are amazing, as are the dawns, because Okinawa is a very beautiful place.
Predictwind suggests shore-based activities from Wednesday.
Not looking good
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