Inns of the Sixth Happiness

Where we stayed and what we ate in Hokkaido!

First place : Deep snow, very warm due to the huge Jotul woodburner in main living area.

I had a series of Jotuls when living in the cold Jura mountains of France.
Madame prepares fabulous meal.
Slices of venison filet, shot by owner. I have already scoffed one, salmon poached with shellfish and veg, rice with lots of veg in it, custard with shrimp and fish, salad with octopus sashimi, soup whose specific deliciousness I have forgotten, All home cooked.

I stagger upstairs to my room and lie on the bed. It collapses under my huge bulk! Very sheepish I ask the owner for help.

Luckily there is no permanent damage! I am abashed.
View from my window next morning.

Next night it is a glorified hut in front of the owl viewing area.

Can you see the french windows in the the white building? This is where Ichiro san and I kept vigil, taking incredible photos of the massive owls.

There is a small dining hall for 10 people or so and two ladies beavering away in a tiny kitchen. I expect ramen.

Holy cow! Cold whole fish, pork hotpot, incredible salmon, scallop, tuna sashimi, rice of course, an exquisite spider crab soup nd salad. Astonishing meal.
One of the most delicious things I have ever eaten.
Breakfast next morning; there is nato in the white box, the rice has not yet arrived. We are in a shed.

Next is a place on the shores of Lake Furen. Another astonishing place.


All fish! All fish from the lake, er except for the outstanding octopus sashimi. Octopi do not live in lakes. Great fish soup.

By the way, this astonishing food is not expensive. We eat with a bunch of young Japanese birders, maybe 18 to 20 years old. They demonstrate no surprise at the quality of the food. The meal would cost hundreds of $ in most capital cities.

Breakfast comes. The owner loves making jam and he sets out a sampling selection for me in English.

Hokkaido milk – brown mug, is the best in the world.

Well, what can I say? The Japanese expect to and do eat very well. I did not see any other tourists. So please y’all do not come to Northern Hokkaido. It is fine as it is.

So now I am back in Okinawa! What a change! It is so hot. A continuation of the food narrative.

Asuka san, Arisa san and I have lunch in a tuna speciality restaurant in Itoman. This is what we ate.

Me – Butter/garlic fish wit sashimi rice bowl.
Pretty much the same.
Whoa! Asuka san san goes for the “Tuna Happiness Meal!”
Tuna Fish Eye
I feel good.

In front of our table a young woman cuts up a huge Tuna.

Don’t know what to say
Eat now!


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3 Responses to Inns of the Sixth Happiness

  1. virtuallyrachelgmailcom says:

    DEEE-lightful!! Love your missives, notwithstanding how deeply they make me long to be there (son Matthew seems to be permanently ensconced as well). So do carry on, and please do keep me updated! with warm regards, Rachel ps: the Stanford University area of Palo Alto also continues to be a delight. And Ric is still gainfully employed at SLAC.

  2. Alan says:

    Love that Jotul. How on earth did it get halfway round the world? Appears to be the grandfather of mine. Splendid food pics. Worth the trip just for those experiences even if the birds had decided to the week off. Good for Asuka taking on that Tuna Eye dish. Can’t help but wonder how you eat it and what it tatsed like.

    • Hi Alan
      I was so surprised to see it..I think the host was a bit taken aback by my jotul worship. He got it second hand from a hotel that was closing – paid $80! All my Japanese lady friends are wonderful eaters. They tear into everything with tremendous gusto. Never a mention of calories nor nutrition nor veganism. The eye ball is very good, gluttonous but very tasty, The round bit on the right of the photo is hard and you do not eat it. This I learnt the hard way. Check video

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