The Quiet Ripple Defines The Pond

So, well rested after the party, we spend Monday on sailing adventures around the islands. The weather is warm and sunny, the wind is kind, the sea is graceful, the scenery is fairytale.

Ben likes to build sand castles. Accordingly, we anchor off a totally deserted beach on one of the uninhabited islands.

The beach on the bottom right corner.

These beaches are more less unvisited.Big conch shells lie around, lots of other exotic shells lie around including US WWII artillery shells.

Exotic shells

Ben goes snorkeling, no wet suit, it is November, the water is still pleasantly warm and crystal clear.

Hooray! We are standing on unexploded munitions.

We then set off on an epic sail. You can try and follow the route on the map below.

Our route around the Keramas.

We try to beat up the sound between our island and Tokashiki but get bored with all the bashing against pretty determined waves coming in the other direction.

We swing around and head for the port of Aka and sweep majestically under the bridge that links Aka to the island like next to it. Beautiful scenery, wind behind as we thunder west. Next we try to beat up the west coast of Aka with the intention of rounding the top of the island and zipping back into Zakimi. We try very hard but the Scaffie is not at her best against the wind in high seas. Eventually we give up and decide to run back down the coast mount the engine and motor home.

The engine does not start. Oh, Tophatsu what have I done to upset you so ? We have no option but to beat back to Zakimi. No great mischief you may think but the problem is that it is now night and we can see nothing  and frankly do not know where we are going.

We beat up the Aka channel and finally pass under the Aka bridge. We then head in the general direction of Zakimi. The sea is  full of islands and rocks  and coral. Ben stays up front and shouts, “Go about!” each time we are seconds away from a beach, a rock and that sort of thing. It was very hairy and in fact Ben and I still disagree on the route we took to get back to Zakimi, illustrating that we had no idea where we were. The night was exceptionally dark and even when we saw the lights of Zakimi, I was not convinced that it actually was the harbor rather than a smaller settlement. Luckily Ben was adamant and we finally tied up after 4 hours of beating through hazard in the pitch dark.

We went back to our shed and slept in preparation for the 6:00 start of the return trip to Okinawa.

Eheu!

So, to fortify himself for the voyage Ben fries up big lumps of last-night’s greasy mutton and adds a few eggs fried in mutton grease. I pass.

The weather is fine but windy and the sea is very lumpy but the wind is coming more or less from behind. We nearly wreck trying to get out through the reef as big waves explode all around. We finally get out out but er, like, just. This stiffens our sinews for the rest of the crossing.

Destination

There is a serious swell.  As our course takes us way out to sea and then a run down into the Keramas, I am vaguely concerned that the Scaffie might get swamped. We are OK but the movement of the boat is unsettling. I can see the mutton and eggs begin to stir in Ben’s stomach as he goes very pale and does not say much.

We overtake a steamer. Big sea.

After not very much time poor Ben starts discharging the contents of his stomach into a red bucket. He then lies down and suffers for the next 6 hours.

Dizziness, nausea and vomiting,

I am Ok thanks to a breakfast of dry toast. We set off at 9:00 and bash out from the coast until we are about 4 miles out. Then we go on a broad reach down to the islands. Hey, this is November but we are in shorts and Tshirts. What a great sail!

Topher’s hat

The hours pass. We see only Flying fish, Boobies and one migrating Grey Faced Buzzard. One fish flies across our bows about 2 metres above the surface of the sea. A Brown Booby is so suprised to see us that it circles us  a few times before heading off to Djakarta.

Finally we spy the islands.There can be few finer sights than watching an archipelago of sub tropical islands loom when you are in a small open sailing boat.

Land ho

An outlier. Still a pretty heavy swell.

We get to Zamami about 5:00 having rowed a fair way due to lack of wind. Lack of wind! As usual  after a day of  40 kph wind, just as you are about to enter the harbor, all wind disappears and the last mile is flapping sails and oars.

As night falls, we stumble around the tiny town trying to find somewhere to sleep. We are turned away from the inn several times – very courteously, we are in Japan. Feeling a bit downhearted; will we be sleeping in the ditch again?,  we suddenly crash into the Zamamia Guest House.

http://zamamia-guesthouse.com/

The owner Paul is a good guy. He sees 8 hours of the open ocean on our faces and says, “We have no rooms but if you want, you can crash in the staff shed.”  Thanks Paul!

Yay!

Paradise

Zamami is a tiny harbor, on a tiny island, off the coast of Okinawa, which itself is lost in the East China Sea. We anticipate quiet. How wrong!

There is a mega party going on to celebrate the fact that it is November. The port is crowded with hundreds of people intent on celebrating November. There are food stands, drinks stands, a raffle, and a series of acts put on by the village folks. It reminds me of similar community craziness in Scotland when I was a boy. It is a really good party.

School teachers

We stagger back through the  warm, scented alleyways to our shed. A 5 star hotel could not have served us better. Thanks Paul

So tomorrow Ben and I go on a raid to the Kerama Islands. We have been spending our evenings eating lamb, drinking, and watching the Vikings.  We are full of fury and ancient Gods.

Sparrows eat the rice crop. Is this a sign?

The weather is terrible. Strong winds and high seas. Would Ragnar have cared?

Ragnar

So tomorrow we set off to new lands. The boat is strong. She comes from Viking heritage. However, I am scared. The sea is wild, the surf is high, the seabirds scream on the skerries. Ben is young and fearless. I sit on the cold shore bemoaning the loss of my Ring-giver.

Eagles scream

It is November. Is this the right time to sail 40 miles over the furious ocean? Did Ragnar worry about these things?

Before the sacrifice.

Hey,  what the hell. Valhalla sounds pretty good.

When Roger was over he much impressed me with his FitBit. This is a device that measures all kinds of bodily functions. One of which is how many steps you take each day. Roger would see a staircase and cry, “Oh good, a staircase this will add to my stairs data.” He would then stumble up the staircase grinning. I think that FatBot is a great motivator for the scientifically inclined as it allows you to collect data.

I now have one and it has added greatly to the excitement of my life. At any moment of the day I can consult; how many steps I have taken, how long I slept last night, when I woke up to pee over the balcony, the altitude I climbed, how many calories I have like burned, my blood pressure, the time, CO2 emissions in Canada, my favorite colors, and my bowel movements.

Wow!

I’m so fat

Ben is here – hooray!

Ben eats fish

We walk a lot because I am obsessed by data. We see all kinds of things.

Broad Billed Crows squabble over lamb bones. A first for Okinawa.

Ben clears undergrowth

Osprey dries its wings post kill

We sail a lot in pretty extreme conditions but forget to take photos. Ben is good crew.

Then we eat and go diving.

Soba in the sunshine

Laura is the best science writing dive instructor in the world.  She takes us out for a spin.

Laura is something else

Ben goes under

Sunday afternoon

Welcome Ben! Much adventuring to come. Stay with us!

This blog purports to be about life in Okinawa. So, here is a little cameo of life in Okinawa. It is nearly 2:00 am, I am, at 2:00 am, staring  at my computer screen with wild surmise. My mouth is open, my lips drawn back over my gums and my teeth have become oddly fang-like. I notice that I am howling and slathering.The cicadas and crickets are making a tremendous racket. Geckos dart around the ceiling and walls gobbling creatures lower on the great chain. Scotland have just scored a converted try against Australia.  There are only 5 mins to play.

We are going to win a match that has been immense and, although not given a chance, we  are going to beat a team that many speak of as the favorite to win the competition. It all unrolls before me. We go on to marmalise Argentina  next week and subsequently the All Blacks. Scotland win the World Cup!  I can’t believe it!

I get my prescription filled

I have rarely felt so elated.

The rest as you know is history. We lose in the last minute.

This guy had quite a lot to do with it.

I walk down to the sea and stand silent on a beach in Okinawa.

Does it matter?

Well, yes and no.

So, Roger drifts in for a few days. It is very good to see him and we have lots of fun.

Beached

We have to do a bit of work stuff.

Caroline Kennedy

Indeed Roger gives 2 talks but most of the time we galivant.

Rats!

It is very windy and the sea is angry. This puts the kybosh on our boating plans. No worries as, as faithful readers will know, Okinawa offers many delights.

Amazing and big moth

Roger on the right

So, Roger has a device called a Fitbit that records how many steps you have taken and all sorts of other interesting data.  He, already, and I, contemporaneously, become fascinated by this device and do whatever we can to increase the steps luminosity. This means going on long walks. This is what we see.

Flutterbye

Kingfisher

Big Boy Egret

It is cooler, which makes walking around in the sun extremely enjoyable.

Why do I bother going to work?

Indiana Cashmore

We also have a historic dinner. Four of the people around the table met at CERN in the 80’s. All, excluding me, went on to great things. When I think about it, I am taking the photos, thus you see me not.

Here we are in Okinawa.

Good fun.

So I haul my sorry ass up to Kyoto after a week of Board of Governors meetings and stuff. I go to the STS Forum. Instead of conference hotel, for the like of which I have developed a very strong antipathy, Naoko books an Airbnb apartment a couple of stops down the subway from the conference center. What a good decision, thanks Naoko. It is in the middle of a straightforward Kyoto residential area and so calm. I am not obliged to speak to people. I find anonymity very alluring.

Good ol’ Abe speaks

My apartment, which is great but has no TV so I miss the Blossoms bashing Samoa.

Young ladies on the subway

P

The Prime Minister of France

Incidentally, the Prime Minister of France, whose name escapes me, is the only person throughout the 3 day meeting who does not speak in English.

Just beside my apartment is a river.

Beautiful walks. These are cherry trees. Imagine the Spring.

Everywhere you look, people are getting married

Spot-billed Duck

I like Kyoto.

Drones have revolutionized institutional film making. Check out where I work. There was only one building when I arrived in Jan 2011. Things move fast in Japan.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLeylXbZDpo

New anchor

As I have mentioned many times over the last five years or nearly, Japan is a delightful place to live. One thing that builds the edifice of wellbeing is the public holidays. We are in the middle of a 5 day bliss-out named Silver Week. Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday are like for enjoyment.

I enjoy – especially today.

I sail the mighty Scaffie up the coast. As usual, this starts as a little excursion to potter around the lagoon some and then come home. However, happiness in high concentration breaks through and I keep going. I race past Cape Maeda and set off for Motobu. The wind is fresh, which the Scaffie likes. She is a strong person and is at her best when there is a little bit of a challenge.

Will you still need me, will you still feed me
When I’m sixty-four?

After an a couple of hours I am  way up the coast. The flying fish are flying, the sun is sunning in a nice slightly ‘Ode to Autumn’ way. It is warm not hot by Okinawan standards, so about 28 degrees, which is is, due to lack of humidity, like perfect.

The wind is coming offshore and the Scaffie revels. However when we get further North the wind dies and we bumble about 5 kilometres off the coast. It is very still, so  I decide that meterogically  the best thing is to go about and head home. Probably the wrong decision as I now think we were just in the wind shadow of big hills on the island and had we continued the wind would have freshened. The importance of local knowledge.

You don’t need a silver fork to eat good food.

All the way home my mind is full of a song by The Knack. Sung in I think 1989, this is the high point of Pop, or so it seemed as the flying fish flew.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1T71PGd-J0   Is this the best love poem ever?

The Scaffie is the best boat.

Here is a poor video; Happy Birthday Rosy!

https://youtu.be/lpSNF8gHT6Y

I worry about the Blossoms.

Once tied up I go to look at stuff.

Go Scotland!

Feet Scotland !

Whiskered Tern over tarot

Scottish Greenshanks

MacCattle Egret

Osprey

What a great day! I go home and cook.

The boy stood on the burning deck.

I cannot contain my happiness. Japan beats South Africa! I am so proud of my semi adopted homeland.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V37Ko4pvioA

Yay! Smash them you blossoms! Delightful Japanese contradiction.

The kids around here play a lot of touch rugby and obviously love it.

https://quietripple.wordpress.com/2014/08/19/fiddler-on-the-roof/

Who is next? Did you say Scotland? Oh dear.

‘An’ forward, tho’ I canna see,
I guess an’ fear!’

Last night. A touch autumnal.