The Quiet Ripple Defines The Pond

So air travel is the miracle of our time. I left work at 12:00 on Thursday Okinawa. A friend drives me to the airport. I fly to Osaka,I fly to San Francisco, a cab blasts me to the apartment. I am now sitting in Central Coffee because I left the apartment key on my key ring now in the possession of the friend who drove me to the airport. It is 12:00 on Thursday in SF. I have gone door to door across the world and it is the same time. Haven’t actually gone through the door yet but that will come in due time. After 6,000 miles or so, the last meter beat me.

I am on a particularly crazy adventure. My Green Card runs out soon. To renew, I have to have my biometrics, fingerprints etc, er done. They give you an appointment that you cannot miss on pain of cancellation of application. So I fly to San Francisco and back for a 15 minute fingerprinting session. No complaints if I get the card extended.

What I feel like after I get off the plane.

It is a beautiful day and so I go for a stroll into the Golden Gate Park. The Park is only 10 mins from our front door and amongst many other attractions it contains the De Young Museum. This is a great place that has an excellent permanent exhibition including a lot of Chihuly but also hosts all the great traveling exhibitions. Right now it is Keith Haring.

Bad dog!

On my walk home I pay homage to the statue of Robert Burns that guards the entrance to the park. I make a little movie with the GoPro.http://youtu.be/AzLnJ3253uU

At last, I have faced the demon that has been mocking me. I have, to my mind, found all kind of excuses for not washing the sand out of poor,wee,crippled, Dileas. The process is simple. Buy  150 meters of hose, stretch it from the lonesome beach where Dileas lies abandoned, link hose to neighbor’s tap, pump water along the hose and then around the most intimate parts of poor, wee Dileas so that, enema like,the mass of sand that has so massively increased the mass of poor, wee, Dileas, is flushed out onto the beach.

My neighbor has been Okinawan. That is to say helpful, smiling, playful, hilarious. He runs one of the most successful restaurant around here but he would never let you know. Ah, dignity. He lets me use his tap.

I love a project

I spray water around her innards. She does not complain. I think she realizes that it is for her own good. Much sand is evacuated.

I now need to turn her over  so that the sand lying in the bottom of the boat becomes the sand on the top of the boat and so easily washed down to the exits that have been exquisitely carved.

Muscle

Many thanks to Tina and Darren for their muscle.

Space age fish trapped inside Dileas

So I think the boat is now free from sand.  I will stuff her with floatation stuff. Empty plastic bottles, huge chunks of styrafoam, party balloons, anything that will give her floatation. I will then take her to the sea, float her down to my house, totally boyant despite the huge gashes in her hull. From there I will bring her to dry land and arrange her burial rights.

You will probably have realized that I have got a GoPro. Check out this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDT7YcRenlU

Quelle histoire!

A quick trip to Tokyo. Symposium and reception and back to Haneda to stay in the glorious First Cabin hotel.

Late night soba

I have never been a fan of fancy hotels. I suppose if you are staying a week or so then a reasonable room with a desk is worth it but normally I arrive, I sleep, wake up,shower and leave. I then have the anguish of can I get to the airport on time? Will I take the wrong subway? Will I go to the wrong terminal?

I now use the First Cabin at Haneda airport whenever possible. It makes me feel youthful as there are strong undertones of school and camping. Your little cabin is like a super luxury tent where you struggle out of your clothes sitting down and stock your socks and shoes at the entrance of the tent. You have fast wifi and a huge TV, which I never watch. Before and after sleeping you go to communal sinkroom that reminds me of schooldays. This one however is superclean, not freezing cold and the soap does not have grit in it.

At the hotel – guess what it is for.

The best thing is the hotel is right beside the security check in. You get up, wash behind your ears, get dressed, choose from multiple airport restaurants for breakfast and sidle to your departure gate.

Bacon and eggs Tokyo style. The white and red stuff I took to be ketchup and mayo but turned out to be raspberry jam and cream.

No stress. It is also dirt cheap. Normal cabins are 5k yen and this morning I realize that there are first class cabins for 6K yen. These have an extra space beside the bed to stash your rucksack and hiking boots. I might splurge next time.

Here is pretty bad IPhone  video of the cabin experience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVfJTzz12h0
They are are wonderful places but I feel they can only work in Japan. There is no lockable door to your cabin, just a slide up blind thing.  Therefore whilst you are in the sinkroom washing the back of your neck, it would be the easiest thing for thieves to break in and steal. Here you could leave the Crown Jewels in the cabin without worry, in Marseille the cabin would have been stolen before you even got there.

So back in Okinawa, I have to do something with poor wrecked Dileas. Having extracted her from the back passage with much difficulty she now lies stranded on the beach. Why she is still there is due to the fact that about a ton of sand was washed into the space between the inner and outer shells of the boat, making her impossible to move. I cannot leave her on the beach because I feel it is environmentally irresponsible and probably illegal.

Her bottom is broken

I have toyed with the idea of repairing her but I have finally accepted that such ideas are in vain. I have been in denial. This is apparently common after incidents of great emotional distress.

To get her to a place where I can truck her to a dump, I have to flush out the sand, as in her current condition she is impossible to move. How to do so is not obvious. I have purchased 150 meters of hose pipe down which water will pour and eventually flood the innards of Dileas and enema-like drive out the sand.

The wounded hussar

To make this work I have to strategically cut holes in the wreck.

So here are a movie.

This one shows some tragic cutting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4YzckFxq_Y

Tomorrow, yet another Japanese public holiday, I  administer the enema.

Today is Ben’s birthday.

Happy Birthday Ben!!

Ben on mighty Dileas

James does nearly all the driving. We pass through remote, remote settlements  with populations of a few hundreds.

The truck was magnificent.

Downtown Cedarville

We cross over into Nevada and start the drive of a lifetime down Highway 447. The weather is cold and the visibility is perfect. Nevada is a big place and we can see for hundreds of miles. We come across 7 Golden Eagles dining on dead coyote. They eventually lumber into the sky like fully loaded Lancaster bombers. 7 Golden Eagles taking off just yards in front of you into the crystal blue above snowy desert is a good thing to see.

Bad photo of Golden Eagle

A Highway Patrol truck pulls us over. It is one of the very few vehicles we have seen. I look into the wing mirror and my body thrills to the sight of two highway patrolmen in cowboy hats and sunglasses striding towards the truck unclasping the catches on the holsters of their 357 Magnums. Oh! USA!

“Are there any weapons in the vehicle, guns, knives?”

“Driving license and registration.”

“ Sir, you were driving at 75mph in a 55mph zone. This is a violation in the State of Nevada.’

Of course the truck does not have registration nor is it insured. We are busted!

“Where are you from Sir?”

“Scotland! Why Sir, so am I.” This is the cop on my side. The other one is doing the official stuff with James who was unlucky enough to be driving at the time.

“ Yep, my family used to live in the castle of Dunbar. Always wanted to go to Europe and see where my folks are from.” We chat amiably about the history of emigration, the best bird watching spots down the road and Burning Man, which takes places on the Black Rock flat just a few miles away.

Finally the official patrolman says, ”This time you guys are just getting warnings for the speeding and no registration but I will have to write you up for the other offence. Travel safe guys.”

So, I guess James will get a citation and fine but they could have been way meaner. Somehow it is almost worth it to have been a performer in one of the great USA movie scenes.

We turn off at Pyramid Lake and take a back track down to the lakeshore.

No one here.

In the middle of the desert

We swoop back through Reno and over the Sierras. We stop in Auburn for a burger.

” I’ ll have a Juicy Jack 3/4 pound triple with cheese combo, please.”

The woman in front of me turns around, with a big grin and thumbs up sign she says, “Way to go, Brother!”

It was indescribably delicious

Check out this boring video of GoPro shots going through Nevada. I wish I had had the nerve to swing the camera around whilst we were being busted. There is some good footage at the end of us swooping back over the new Bay Bridge into the city.

http://youtu.be/-LGoRtM_cZg

We have 3 motorcycles and a scooter but if that was not enough manliness we now borrow Topher truck. We need it as James and I are headed upcountry to check out migrating geese and spot Bald-Headed Eagles. The idea is to visit 3 major goose spots or bumps;

The Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge

http://www.cawatchablewildlife.org/viewsite.php?site=180&display=q&gm=y

Tule Lake

http://www.fws.gov/refuge/tule_lake/

Modoc National Wildlife Refuge

http://www.fws.gov/refuge/modoc/

Over the Bay Bridge, up 80 onto 505 and finally 5 – lighting out for the territories. As we get to the Sacramento reserve, which is just South of Willows, the sunset sky is full of thousands of geese winging it back to the lakes to roost, having spent the day feeding in various fast food restaurants. It is a fabulous sight.

New Year’s Eve party

How many rivers do we have to cross?

After a quick visit to the lakes, we hole up in a Motel and seek out steak restaurant. “Hey Swede, burn me a thick one.” I cry on entering.   It is New Years Eve. James and I are in bed by 10:30.

2015 starts as we mean it to go on; with great vigor. We are up at 6:00 and back at the bird-watching lakes to see the dawn come up over the flocks of Snow Geese.

First moments of 2015

Cold Jack Rabbit making New Year resolutions

I am writing this in Osaka airport so do not have my book with me to identify this hawk. Later – the learned Zandra correctly identifies this as a Red Shouldered Hawk

The first sun of 2015. This was beautiful stuff.

Snow Goose drops from the sky

Red Tailed Hawk sets off for a new year. Good hunting buddy.

Otter fun

Snow Goose

After slaking our lust all morning, we head the truck northeast past Mont Shasta, which is a very fine mountain, to Lake Tule to take in the thousands of Geese and hundreds of Bald Eagles that hang out there.

You see me here, you see me there, you see me everywhere.

This is remote California. Wide open country of forest and hill. We come across 3 Golden Eagles chowing down on road kill by the side of the road. They are big, magnificent birds that allow us to approach very close before flapping off indolently.

I am vigilant

As we approach Lake Tule we notice lots of white stuff that I have not seen much of during my now 4 years in Okinawa. When we get to the lake we notice that it is totally frozen over and of course all the geese and Bald Eagles have gone somewhere else. Hmmm, should have thought about that.

Bald Headed Eagle on frozen Lake Tule.

Are we dismayed? No! The scenery is so magnificent, we are just a few miles from Oregon, everyone drives a truck, to want more would be pure greed.

We drive truck to Alturas to find somewhere to stay and end up in the Hacienda Motel. When asked about restaurants, the motel man says, “ Well, I could cook you up some red potatoes and I got some beans I just made and biscuits of course. We got any of that chicken left honey? Yep ,we could serve it up with chicken.” We rudely turn down his offer fearing that he would engage us in conversation. James and I are lonesome cowboys.

First sunset of 2015, just a couple of miles from the Oregon border.

It is the 1^st of January. It is minus 14 centigrade. The town, such as it is, is closed. We finally find a Subway and buy big USA sandwiches stuffed with beef and salad and onions and olives and pickles. You buy Subway sandwiches by length, either 6 inches or 1 foot. Back in the hotel we turn up the heat, drink beer, eat our sandwiches, and watch TV about a Pawn Shop. We are invaded by a great sense of contentment.

Next day after a stonking bacon eggs hash browns, English muffin and gallons of coffee we drive out to the final destination.

I love America.

This is the big one, the Modoc County Nature Reserve, renowned for its over-abundance of wildfowl, geese and Bald Eagles. Of course we know that it is a futile gesture as it is tremendously cold, earth is hard as iron and water like a stone. The lakes are solid; the wild geese have flown.

The US is still packed with wildlife

We head off into Nevada with a slight sense of disappointment but a huge sense of elation of having visited these incredible winter landscapes. This is the US of the cowboy and what’s more you can buy a house with an acre for $70,000. I think I will come back here, buy a house and gun and work as a volunteer ranger in one of the National Parks.

Deep frozen Modoc lakes.

So, where the boys ,and occasionally I, live in San Francisco is 2 blocks over from Haight Street. It is where we go for food,drink, shoe repair and stuff. Haight of course gained fame in the late 60’s as the epicentre of the hippy movement. It is true that Jimi Hendrix gave a free concert just in front of our house on the Panhandle. Anyway,Haight has retained some of the hippy stuff but has also gained lots of fascinating little shops and bars and coffee shops and stuff. There are lots of homeless, who by and large are harmless homeless, who just want to sell weed in peace. Most of them have Pit Bull Terriers, a breed of dog that has a very poor reputation in Europe, whereas here they all seem very cuddly.

We drink in the Golden Cane, a bar that has been there since 1910, which is a very long time around these parts. It is rough, friendly, serves liquor, many cheap beers and  no food.  The bartenders are big older guys who despite their conviviality refrain from the, “Hi my name is Mindy and I am your server.” style.

Forget the dinners. Now it is just drinks. I think this sign dates to a more elegant period of the Golden Cane’s life.

Where Grace Slick drank

The Pork Store is where we have breakfast. It is also an old place.

Two pork chops, eggs, hash browns, loads of coffee and iced water. Sets you up for the day.

Where Bob Weir had breakfast

Here is a short movie of James and I going to pick up his boot.

http://youtu.be/jHwP9uqM1q0

So, Ben like James has two motorcycles. Well, in fact he has one scooter and one motorcycle – both are Yamahas. The scooter is a 125 automatic clutch deal whereby you twist the throttle and off she goes. I used her a lot last time I was in San Francisco and she gained my total respect. However now she is sick. Who can blame her as Ben has run off with a sassy motorcycle called a Naked Rider! Poor, honest, faithful, if a bit plain, the scooter is abandoned. Hell, why should she run?

When I get in, I recommend that Ben has a serious talk with the scooter, offers a total makeover and promises to ride her more often. She agrees.

Scooter on the way to the Spa in Topher’s truck.

The hot number that has entered Ben’s motorcycle world is stubby, 4 cylindered, needs warming up but once ready really zaps.

Ben on the Naked Rider

We get a call from the Spa saying that the scooter is her old self again and ready to rock.

We go to the Spa but James and I take he seats in the truck so Ben lies down in the flatbed and ponders his new life with the scooter. I think he will sell her down the river.

And so it goes.

I get up and stroll through the Panhandle park to the Central Cafe for my morning coffee and Bagel.

Early morning Panhandle

This is a really good place-crazy people, great coffee, great food.

James and I then set out on the two KLRs. It is the best day that there has ever been er weather-wise and come to think it more or less every other wise. We have two objectives; to pay homage to the Tamalpais High School where Tupac went to school and to drive up the coast to Point Reyes to take a tramp.

One bike is the sensational, almost brand new, open-pipe monster and the other is the broken framed but faithful one. Both go like hell and we take turns.

We memorably storm across the Golden Gate. Check out this Oscar candidate for best Go Pro of riding over the Golden Gate.

http://youtu.be/BxM83diIBtk

We then terrorize Sausalito before heading off to Mill Valley to have breakfast.

http://youtu.be/0pEYu422YxY

Bacon and eggs, english muffin, lashings of coffee

Having laid Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh at the gates of Tamalpais High School we head off over Mount Tam to Stinson Beach.

Does not look too ghetto to me.

Winding mountain road flanked by huge redwoods, through which the blue, blue sky is downdropping, to the accompaniment of raucous “Blappa, blappa,blappa, bang, bang!” of James’ custom exhaust system. Then up the coast to Point Reyes.

Sinuous rill

We look for mushrooms and birds.

Mushroom

Bird

We drive back down the coast with the sun going down over the ocean. We recross the bridge, zoom through town and home for a nice cup of tea. A truly glorious day.

Then music in the Plough and Stars

Can you believe this? It was $4.50 when I left in 2008.