Hark, Now Hear the Sailors Cry, Smell the Sea, and Feel the Sky, Let your Soul & Spirit Fly, into the Mystic.

I am up early and prepare for the voyage. I put on sunscreen, put on my hat, put water beer, suchi, onigiri into the icebox and clamber into Dileas.  I both forgot my camera and to bring sunscreen. Turquoise lagoon, deep blue sea beyond the reef, sky er blue but not so blue as the sea beyond the reef, sun a mixture of pale yellow and white but imbued with much power. The sea is warm, the air is hot and there is a gentle wind coming offshore.

This is what I have been waiting for! In how many long meetings has my mind strayed to what I am doing now? I haul up the mainsail and jib and let go from the mooring and turn so the wind fills the sails. This is a very magical moment as from flapping of sail and instability of boat, motion begins. The moment a sail  fills and the boat takes life and knifes across the lagoon under perfect control, is so beautiful it stops my breath. Over the reef we go and at the junction, I hang right to go north on East China Sea Highway 1.  There is no traffic.

The wind freshens and we charge along with Dileas throwing up noble pure white spray from her bows.We heel and I get scared as it has been sometime since I sailed in earnest. I decide to go about just for the sake of it. I let go the jib sheet, push the rudder over and move to pull in  the other jib sheet but of course it has become entangled with boarding ladder. The boom is lashing back and forward until a gust of wind catches the sail  and throws it over my head. Now the sail is pushing the boat over in the direction that my huge bulk is sitting on. The other side of the boat rises up, water starts to pour in on my side, sail clatter, sheets fly, all is lost. Well, not really but it was hairy for a while. When I had got everything back under control I realize that the beautiful hat, which I bought in San Francisco and of which I had since become very fond, had grabbed this opportunity to escape and was now trying to find its way home.

View from anchorage

View from anchorage. All photos taken with IPhone.

On I go and before I know it I have made the island I am to invade. The landing beach is however hidden behind various reefs and the wind is coming directly towards me. Much tacking and manoeuvring is necessary before, feeling very proud of myself, I drop anchor in one of the most beautiful places in the world around here.

As soon as you stop sailing on the wild and wistful ocean you realize that it is very hot. My nose fries and I flop over the side into the world of fish. I check my anchorage and feel bad. No matter where you drop the anchor, there is coral and the chain is bound to do some damage. I promise to slaughter a young bull in penitence and set off snorkelling. Amazing scenes that you will not see as my underwater camera is on my desk at home. I rise to the surface and hear a stalwart fisherman bellowing at me. I turn my head to see Dileas drifting out toward China. Holy Cow!

I set off swimming after her. Luckily I have fins but even so, by the time I catch up to her I have almost lost the will to live through old man exhaustion.  I had assumed that the anchor rope had been cut by coral abrasion but it turns out that the rope was fine but the knot attaching the rope to the chain had come undone. This difficult to fathom as I have been tying bowlines since Mr Pritchard taught them to me whilst oiling my body for photographs.  Just goes to show that when boating, something will always go wrong.On my way home with badly rigged reef in mainsail

On my way home with badly rigged reef in mainsail

Time has come to set off home. I reef the mainsail, unnecessarily it turns out, elegantly lift the anchor and experience the same thrill as the wind transforms Dileas into a thoroughbred. We slice off over the reef into deep water. The wind has kindly changed direction and all the way back we are on a broad reach, a very comfortable way to sail. We surf over the waves that are now going in the same direction as us. I twice silently creep up on turtles. The second is snoozing with her back to me and does not see me until she is amidships or like level with the boat.  Oh Okinawa! Her escape is of course delayed by the flying fish that always get in the way.

Sea West Highland Terrier

Sea West Highland Terrier

I get home in no time but just keep going down to Cape Zampa, another couple of miles down the coast. I check on the Black Browed Terns and then turn around to beat back to the bonny anchorage outside my house. All goes well until I get very close to the mooring. It is so shallow that I have to raise the center board. In so doing I drift hopelessly in the very light wind. I have to go about and come in on a different angle. After a couple attempts I pick out the mooring and we are home again without ever having used the motor. Hooray.

This is what I have been waiting for. Eheu!

Well earned rest at the end of the day. I would like to give her some oats

Well earned rest at the end of the day. I would like to give her some oats

Tomorrow is typhoon time. Never a dull moment.

This means a day off work!

This means a day off work!

 

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Dump

There is an excellent dump not far from my house and I always enjoy a visit. I like getting rid of stuff and the Okinawan climate destroys stuff very quickly. Today I junked, old chairs horribly twisted by hot rain and humidity, rusted tables, a bunch of wooden stuff, my broken side stay, various old computer boxes and that sort of thing. The truck is up to the job and before we know it we are on the weighbridge.

Happy truck

Happy truck

I love dumps

I love dumps

However this is just a prelude to the real business of the day – taking Dileas out onto the wild and wistful ocean.

The stay arrived on Thursday and I raised the mast on returning from the dump. I was blessed by light wind coming off the shore and I was able to sail straight off the mooring. I was very eager to see if I could sail Dileas single-handed. With the wind behind we set off for China. After about 3 miles I decide to leave China for another day as the wind changes direction and a series of squalls and rainstorms arrive from the South.

Charging along. Sorry that she looks so messy but I will have her more shipshape on the invasion I have planned for tomorrow.

Charging along. Sorry that she looks so messy but I will have her more shipshape on the invasion I have planned for tomorrow.

Finally after months of preparation, I am sailing Dileas on the East China Sea. She is very stable and given any reasonable wind, planes over the waves at a very satisfactory speed. I think she is the perfect craft for the local condition as she has very shallow draft. The sea around here is deceitful. You think you are in deep water until you look over the side of the boat to see a coral reef only six feet below the surface. Both the center board and the rudder are spring-loaded so they lift if they come into contact with reefs. She is also surprisingly large. I could entertain a host of starlets to sunset champagne cruises as long as they did not speak or irritate me.

After much gybing, going about and getting to know the boat, I tack homewards. She can sail pleasingly close to wind.

Red bucket always comes in handy. Never touched the motor during the whole trip.

Red bucket always comes in handy. Never touched the motor during the whole trip.

Great satisfaction as I am able to sail straight back to the mooring and pick it up like a real pro. Unfortunately no one was watching.

Back on the mooring - looking much more business -like

Back on the mooring – looking much more business -like

Tomorrow is Sunday and I am going to invade a little island about 15 Km north of here. I have never been there but it looks idyllic. I do not think I will be able to sleep tonight.

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Sans Paroles

Sunday

Sunday

Monday

Monday

Tuesday

Tuesday

Wednesday

Wednesday

Thursday

Thursday

Later on Thursday

Later on Thursday

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Things I Am Bad At

One of the many things that I am bad at is sticking letters onto the side of  a boat. I have finally removed the American from Dileas’ flank and now have to stick on the letters that spell Dileas. This terrifies me as no matter how I measure, plumb-line, calculate, I always mess this kind of thing up.

The S is tilted

The S is tilted

I also do it at the wrong time as the tide is rising and suddenly Dileas floats and thus escapes each time I try to stick on a letter.

Not too bad

Not too bad

I have a new anchor.

This is about 2 meters underwater. See how clear the sea is.

This is about 2 meters underwater. See how clear the sea is.

I go for a little swim because I cannot sail.

I go for a little swim because I cannot sail.

My fleet lies in front of my house. Dileas dismasted but little blue boat doing well.

My fleet lies in front of my house. Dileas dismasted but little blue boat doing well. 

I wish my side stay would appear in the post box. How long will it take?

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Shieling

In the west of Scotland in what is called the summer, the people would move the cattle, sheep and things onto higher ground and would essentially camp out.

Shielings on Jura

Shielings on Jura

The shieling was associated with fun, romance and slightly less rain. I too have decided to move to the shieling.

It is now very hot.

It stays like this until November

It stays like this until November

Magnificent is my house but through a quirk of fate only my bedroom has AC. The owner ran off with the units from the other rooms and I am too much of a cheap skate to buy new ones. Last year I toughed it out and sat in the main room with a towel on the floor under my seat to absorb the liters of sweat that oozed out of me.

After a very hot lunch,

We were all very hot

We were all very hot

I decide to hie me to the shieling, er like the bedroom.

My new home

My new home

It is so comfortable.

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Save The Rainforest !

Topher has launched his start-up Rainforest Connection.

https://rfcx.org/

Go to his Kickstarter site and give his company a few dollars. Believe me, it is a totally excellent cause.

Listen to what Neil Young has to say.

http://mashable.com/2014/06/26/recycle-smartphone-startup-deforestation/

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/topherwhite/rainforest-connection-phones-turned-to-forest-guar

Also on the BBC:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McxDyNkbEPI

Topher also has a great truck.

Topher also has a great truck. Here is Ben leaning against it.

Topher also has a great truck. Here is Ben leaning against it.

So, share the link, talk to people about it, give some money, build credit in heaven.

 

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Midsummer’s Day

I have always thought that Midsummer’s Day comes too early.  Suddenly before Summer has really begun, we are in the middle of it and the days start getting shorter. That said Midsummer’s Day is famous for several reasons. First is of course that the Battle of Bannockburn was fought on this day in front of Stirling Castle in 1314.

Robert Burns, as usual, says it all. Check out this wonderful site of Burns’ poems read by real Scottish people.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/robertburns/works/robert_bruces_march_to_bannockburn/

Death of de Bohun  as pre battle entertainment. This was before Cheerleaders

Death of de Bohun as pre battle entertainment. This was before Cheerleaders

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5kE3of1Lzo

It is also my brother Ian’s birthday today. Please all wish Ian a happy day.

The first reel is Midsummer’s Night.

Anyway here in Okinawa this hinge-like day between light and dark has been very wet. There is a rainy season on Okinawa which seems to have lasted since January. Previous years have been more sunny. However I dream on Midsummer’s Eve, as did Shakespeare, as I look out over the East China Sea.

“Since once I sat upon a promontory,
And heard a mermaid on a dolphin’s back
Uttering such dulcet and harmonious breath,
That the rude sea grew civil at her song,
And certain stars shot madly from their spheres,
To hear the sea-maid’s music. ”

I also met a Kennedy.

Apparently Neil Diamond wrote Sweet Caroline for this very charming lady.

Apparently Neil Diamond wrote Sweet Caroline for this very charming lady.

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Rice

My weekend’s sailing adventures have been thwarted so to maintain the pleasure harmonic at high frequency, I plan a weekend of gastronomie a la Okinawanaise.

I go down to the fishing harbor and buy a fish and an octopus.

The first meal is a tuna fish thing, which cost $3:00, with nigiri made by my buddy up the road. He always puts the green stuff between the fish and the rice, which I feel must be very authentic. I fire up the Cobb.

I am the god of hell fire, and I bring you  Fire, I'll take you to burn  Fire, I'll take you to learn  I'll see you burn

I am the god of hell fire, and I bring you
Fire, I’ll take you to burn
Fire, I’ll take you to learn
I’ll see you burn

In short, I cook the fish, which is very fresh, then I eat it.

Only speaks Japanese

Only speaks Japanese

Sensuality

Sensuality

Ceci n'est pas une pouple

Ceci n’est pas un pouple

This is a prelude for a drooling panegyric to Japanese rice. My rice education was strongly influenced by the Indian Restaurant. Rice had to be like individually separated. It had to cascade onto the plate in the same way that gold dust streams from a prospector’s pouch. Also it had to be ‘al dente’. Actually the term ‘al dente’ has had a like big impact on British food perception. Rice, pasta, carrots, beans, potatoes, beetroot, turnip, fried eggs, all had to be ‘al dente’ or you were like nowhere. Japanese rice  flies  in the face of this epicural fascsim in that it is all stuck together and gooey, yet delicious.

Rice with rice cooker.

Rice with rice cooker.

There is an enormous choice of rice. Of course I have no idea what the difference between them  might be but my Japanese friends do.

Japanese rice is round and cuddly rather than slim and elegant. This suits my taste at my time of life

Japanese rice is round and cuddly rather than slim and elegant. This suits my taste at my time of life

 

Stuck up

Stuck up

Octopus and lotus root tempura

Octopus and lotus root tempura

Delicious though this was, I would rather have been in my boat.

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Dismasted in the East China Sea!

Cruising with Dileas has not run smooth. Once she was in the water the weather turned grim with strong winds and very, very heavy rain. However she waited faithful at her post for the moment to come.

Big storm coming in

Big storm coming in, calm before the storm

One morning last week as the wind blew and the rain lashed down; a short parenthesis here, rain in Okinawa is not like rain in Scotland in that it is warm and pleasing to the skin, I am primped up to go to work. As I step into the truck with horribly swollen knee, I notice that there is something funny about  Dileas. It took a long time to process the data that she had been dismasted.

Spot the difference

Spot the difference

So I have to; rush in, change, wade out, disentangle, retrieve and go to my first meeting in record time. Fiddling with little shackles when up to your neck in the East China Sea, with rain hammering down, cognizant of the obligation  to give a presentation in 30 minutes, is a formative experience.

Anyway one of the side-stays had snapped. My fault as it was probably not tight enough and the battering of the wind made the mast bang from side to side. Poor little side-stay.

More guilt

More guilt

Of course, it is now the weekend, the wind is fair, the weather is beautiful, conditions are perfect for me to invade North Korea.  I lie dismasted in Shioya Bay.

 

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Crystal

So I have always considered gout to be a disease of fat, old, drunks, which actually describes me pretty well. They contract it as a punishment for their sins of excess, “Gouty patients are, generally, either old men, or men who have so worn themselves out in youth as to have brought on a premature old age—of such dissolute habits none being more common than the premature and excessive indulgence in venery, and the like exhausting passions. ”   Actually it is caused by crystal meth conglomerating around your joints, or so I understood the doctor to say.

Anyway I have had a badly swollen knee for a week or so that I believe is the result of foolishly engaging in strenuous exercise. A combat class for street fighters has opened at the university and I have been taking it. It is almost identical to the Boxing Boot camp with Roxie that I did in San Francisco, except it starts at 7:00am.

http://spikekalashnikov.wordpress.com/2010/09/20/boxing-boot-camp-with-roxie/ 

http://spikekalashnikov.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/thanks-roxie/

However I am 4 years older and logically end up in an orthopedic clinic.

I love been treated in Japan as I have no idea what is really going on. I sit on a chair. The doctor pummels a bit and then produces a huge medical comedy syringe that he plunges in my knee.He drains off  volumes of greasy, yellow liquid that had apparently been living therein. Great excitement! However he also promulgates that the condition might not be the result of manly exercise but rather due to fat-old-drunk-disease – gout!

I am overcome with shame.

Three of those came out of my knee

Three of those came out of my knee

Happy doctor

Happy doctor

I have a blood test and will know the answer in a few days apparently but you know I could have totally got hold of the wrong end of the stick. I thought you got gout in your big toe.

The secret lies within

The secret lies within

Anyway the blood test worries me as on Saturday there was a big party at my house.

No cocktails on roof because of torrential rain. The rest worked out.

No cocktails on roof because of torrential rain. The rest worked out.

A lot of raw meat was consumed, washed down by copious amounts of drink. I am sure my blood must be tainted.

We ate an incredible amount of meat.

We ate an incredible amount of meat.

Katie, Mayumi, Natori-san

Katie, Mayumi, Natori-san

We drink Okinawan Knee Drainers

We drink Okinawan Knee Drainers

 

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