Dancing in the Dark

I twist and turn as the afternoon wears on at work. Finally the bell rings and I rush home to go fishing.

I throw off my clothes and embark for the reef. The motor does not fail. Why have I such a deep distrust for outboards? I expect them not to start.

A working outboard. Rare.

A working outboard. Rare.

I anchor in deep water and set up my Sabiki rig. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabiki

Up to now I have caught lots of  small reef  fish but tonight I am stalking bigger prey by fishing deeper. The sun is setting and the fish are hungry.

This little basket has about 1 minute to live.

This little basket has about 1 minute to live.

As soon as I lower the bait, there is a tremendous bite but after 45 seconds of skilful angling the huge fish rips the Sabiki untimely from the line. I am panting with excitement.

I re-rig and sure enough I get another bite. This time I manage to bring the fish to the boat.

A reasonable Parrot fish. They are usually very argumentative.

A reasonable Parrot fish. They are usually very argumentative.

I start again and there is a bite, a palpable bite, which of course in a very short time rips my hooks untimely from the line. I will have to beef up my gear.

This is the backdrop to the adventure

This is the backdrop to the adventure

Anyway, it gets dark and I speed back home as the full moon rises. Now is the time to anchor. It is a very high tide which I suspect has something to do with the full moon, or vice versa.

I am a very neurotic anchoring person. What if there is a squall during the night? What if the wind changes direction? Will the anchor drag? This means I place the anchor by hand by diving down with my long black Polynesian hair streaming behind me. I set the anchor to my satisfaction but realize that my specs, which had been around my neck, have disappeared into the dark, dark, East China Sea.

“My eyes are blind, I cannot see.

I have not brought my specs with me.”

This a drag as I do not really have an adequate replacement. So I go back to the house for my underwater flash light and spend a delightful 20 minutes searching the bottom of the bay for my specs. It is very dark and the sea bed is alive with creepy, crawly, crabby things. I have no real expectation of finding them but feel I have to try. It is made easier by the beautifully warm, clear water

Lo, what specs by yonder rock hold parliament with a congregation of crabs? Yep, I find them.

SAY not the struggle naught availeth,
  The labour and the wounds are vain,
The enemy faints not, nor faileth,
  And as things have been they remain.
If hopes were dupes, fears may be liars;          5
  It may be, in yon smoke conceal’d,
Your comrades chase e’en now the fliers,
  And, but for you, possess the field.

I finally get back at about 9:00 to find that the leg of lamb fairy has been to the house and left a huge gigot on my chair.

Just in time for tomorrow's party

Just in time for tomorrow’s party

I cannot rest from travel: I will drink
Life to the lees: all times I have enjoyed
Greatly, have suffered greatly, both with those
That loved me, and alone; on shore, and when
Through scudding drifts the rainy Hyades2
Vexed the dim sea: I am become a name;
For always roaming with a hungry heart
Much have I seen and known; cities of men
And manners, climates, councils, governments,
Myself not least, but honoured of them all;
And drunk delight of battle with my peers,
Far on the ringing plains of windy Troy3.
I am a part of all that I have met;
Yet all experience is an arch wherethrough
Gleams that untravelled world, whose margin fades
For ever and for ever when I move.
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Turn,Turn,Turn

A short night’s sleep following musical stuff in Naha.

Play in Pyjamas

Play in Pyjamas

I am very curious about the Black-naped Tern. I feel great affinity with them. They like me live perched on the sea and seem happy to wheel around fishing. I feel we could be good friends.

I spend nearly all day in the boat. The weather is perfect. It is Sunday and I have no left over work to make me feel guilt. I take off on a cruise down to Maeda to inspect a tug that has been anchored there the last few days.

Fine boat.

Fine boat.

From there I head back to Tern land on the cliffs of Cape Zampa. I am a very poor fisherman being unable to control rods and reels. Various attempts end up with hopelessly tangled line. I can just about manage some line wrapped around a stick with a hook on the end.

I give up

I give up

I then spend several hours stalking the Tern in a rocking boat with a 300mm lens. The water is as clear, as clear, as clear can be, the sky is as blue, as blue can be, the sea is as warm, as warm, as warm can be. I take photos, splosh into the sea for a spot of fish watching and then more photos. I am in one of the most inaccessible places in Okinawa at the foot of unscalable cliffs but the combination of shallow draught boat, baby Chinese motor and perfectly calm sea opens the window of er opportunity.

Timmy Tern

Timmy Tern

Tina Tern

Tina Tern

Terry Tern

Terry Tern

Thank you boat and little Chinese motor

Thank you boat and little Chinese motor

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In Dulci Jubilo

I now have the perfect package. Lightweight boat with lightweight motor. Adventure lies ahead.

Let slip the dogs of war. Cape Zampa can be seen in the background. From there to the lighthouse is about another mile.

Let slip the dogs of war. Cape Zampa can be seen in the background. From there to the lighthouse is about another mile.

It starts!

Off I go in search of the nesting site of the very rare Black-naped Tern. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black-naped_Tern

Cherry Garrard did something similar to collect Emperor Penguin eggs.  The motor pushes the boat along very nicely and soon I am approaching the Cape.

No penguins

No penguins

 

This where they hid the treasure.

This where they hid the treasure.

I stop to snorkel in caves.

Black-naped terns playing leapfrog! You don't see that very often.

Black-naped Terns playing leapfrog! You don’t see that very often.

I find the secret nesting sites.

I find the secret nesting sites.

The coast line is very rugged as it is frequently lashed by mega typhoons. Have a look at this. The waves were breaking over the lighthouse!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxiRqDDwmps&feature=youtu.be

Not today. Calm as er, calm as um ditchwater?

Not today. Calm as er, calm as um ditchwater?

Bliss.

 

 

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Please Mr Postman

When I get back from Chiba this awaits.

"My beating Heart Bounds with exulting motion."

“My beating heart bounds with exulting motion.”

This signifies that a package has been to my house in my absence. My motor? This does not say, show up at a post office and collect it you bum, but rather phone this number especially set up for English speakers. I do so and the charming lady arranges for the delivery to be made to my house between 7:00 and 9:00pm. She also tells me that the delivery is a small package and a letter – not the motor.

I get home at 7:00. At 7:30 a Post Office van shows up and a happy, smiling man shows me 3, yes 3, parcels.  Thank you Japan Post Office for delivering stuff to me at 7:30.  Are there any other public postal services that offer the same service?

One is huge, it is the motor!

Three presents on the same day!

Three presents on the same day!

The first is from Ben and James. It is a food parcel containing oatflakes, a huge bag of coffee, an inner tube for Big Red and a handmade mirror. I cannot go into detail here but I am immensely pleased and touched by this parcel from my sons – thank you James, thank you Ben.

Thanks

Thanks

Next is a monocular that I bought on Ebay. It came from China. It cost nothing. It has the brand Bushnell, which is a well-known US telescope company.  Hmmmm.

This for the boat. No sea captain is complete without a telescope.

This for the boat. No sea captain is complete without a telescope.

With trembling hands I unzip the big boy box.

Tomorrow is Saturday

Tomorrow is Saturday

Whoot, whoot!

Set the controls for the heart of the sun

Set the controls for the heart of the sun

Even youths shall faint and be weary, and young men shall fall exhausted; but they who wait for the LORD shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings like eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk and not faint.

Tomorrow I will mount up with wings like eagles.

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Canada

I like Haneda airport. It is easy to get to. There never seems to be panic. People are helpful. Flights take 10 minutes to board. Loads of high quality places to eat. Just pleasant; there are not many airports in the world I can say that about. The worst? – Marseille by miles.

Chill

Chill

Quick lunch

Quick lunch

There are many places where you can pose with Olympic athletes in the ‘Enjoy! Photo Park 2020’ campaign.

Tokyo takes its candidature for the 2020 Olympics seriously

Tokyo takes its candidature for the 2020 Olympics seriously

East China Sea in Summer

East China Sea in Summer

I get home in time for the sunset.

Where is my motor?

Where is my motor?

 

 

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Pain

I have time in Chiba before my flight. What do you do in a strange city at 9:30?

I leave the hotel

I leave the hotel

You go to the zoo. This turns out to be further away than I thought, in the middle of nowhere. To ensure I get back to the hotel in time to catch the bus to the airport, I ask the ladies at the main gate if they can call me a cab to be at the main entrance at the time er, like, I need to leave. They sweetly give me a piece of paper with numbers on it. I mime that I have no phone as I have dumbly left it at the hotel. They show me  a public pay phone in the distance. I indicate that I have never used one and that I would have trouble explaining to the cab company where they could pick me up. The poor things are squirming as they clearly have orders not to make private calls nor can they leave their posts to help me with the pay phone. They are desperate to help but can’t. I feel their pain. I thank them and wander around. I love zoos.

Scratching her nose

Scratching her nose

Whoot!

Whoot!

Spam bird

Spam bird

 

Near time to leave, the place is still empty but I track down a visitor by the gorilla house. I do a superb mime of, “Could you phone this number please and ask them to send a cab to the main entrance of the zoo, downstairs by the bus stop, please.”

He totally understands.

Good Samaritan

Good Samaritan

As I leave, both ladies are waiting for me with expressions of deep distress. I mime, “Everything is fine. A kind man phoned the cab company for me and I believe there will be a Star cab waiting for me downstairs by the bus stop.”

Their faces light up with heartfelt relief. 5 minutes later I am in the taxi.

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Paraphernalia

Not Okinawa but Chiba. The grey bit is Tokyo Bay, which would be blue in Okinawa.

Not Okinawa but Chiba. The grey bit is Tokyo Bay, which would be blue in Okinawa.

I speak at a conference which is fun as lots of old friends are here.

Old Stanford friend Pisin Chen gets ready.

Old Stanford friend Pisin Chen gets ready.

My IPhone has no power. No problem as I scrabble in the bag I take everywhere, which is loaded with the paraphernalia of travel – computer power source, phone charger, ethernet cable, loads of different adaptors etc. Panic as I find not the phone charger. An enemy, probably Al Qaeda affiliate, must have borrowed it. Is it possible to exist two days with no IPhone?

During the coffee break I scamper to a convenience store and sure enough there is a rack of phone chargers. Of course I cannot read so I plump for the one that looks more or less like that what I think it should. Er.

I get back to the conference and rip off the packaging to find something quite different.

It is a power pack thing for independent charging.

It is a power pack thing for independent charging.

I am delighted with this as it means I can charge my IThings in weird places, on the boat, in the toilet, whilst walking down the beach, if I put them in my new waterproof camera bag I will be able to charge when diving, when under the shower, in the bath, in Scotland. This is a whole new dimension, which is actually the subject of the next talk.

Travel paraphernalia

Travel paraphernalia

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Umi no Hi

Japan is a great place for National Holidays. They crop up all the time. They sneak up behind you and go “Boo!” when you least expect it.  Today is one such. It is Ocean Day.

Marine Day (海の日 Umi no Hi?), also known as “Ocean Day” or “Sea Day”, is a Japanese national holiday celebrated on the third Monday in July. The purpose of the holiday is to give thanks to the ocean’s bounty and to consider the importance of the ocean to Japan as an island nation.[1] Many people take advantage of the holiday and summer weather to take a beach trip. Other ocean-related festivities are observed as well.[2]

Accordingly I do lots of sea stuff. World famous photographer Satoru san is still here and comes in very useful.

DSC_0523

View from table

Sea you Jimmy day

Sea you Jimmy day

I caught 4 fish

I caught 4 fish

Play with underwater camera bag thing

Play with underwater camera bag thing

Underwater camera bag thing. Not sure if I trust it.

Underwater camera bag thing. Not sure if I trust it.

Get sunburn

Get sunburn

Watch sunset

Watch sunset

Thank you Ocean Day.

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Stairway to Heaven

When I bought the boat ladder, I knew it would not work but whether or not it worked was more or less irrelevant. The fun was trying to make it work, ergo messing around with boats.

There's a lady who's sure all that glitters is gold And she's buying a stairway to heaven.

There’s a lady who’s sure all that glitters is gold
And she’s buying a stairway to heaven.

The first thing I had to do was to move the er stanchion things from the bottom to the top of the ladder so they could get purchase on the small back of my boat. This necessitates new collars as the originals have a key thing that fits into a groove on the aluminum  vertical tube. This means they do not fit higher up where there is no groove.This groove is to be important.  After a lot of mime fun at my favorite hardware store, the owner, who is now an enthusiastic partner in my various crimes, comes up with a bathroom fitting which will do nicely.

There's a sign on the wall but she wants to be sure 'Cause you know sometimes words have two meanings. Well, well

There’s a sign on the wall but she wants to be sure
‘Cause you know sometimes words have two meanings.
Well, well

I position the stairway to heaven on the boat whereupon it becomes clear that the horseshoe like brackets that go over the stern are far too wide.  No problem as I lash a big lump of wood to the horseshoes thus obtaining a snug fit.

Ooh, it makes me wonder, Ooh, it really makes me wonder.

Ooh, it makes me wonder,
Ooh, it really makes me wonder.

As I clamber up the ladder, the stanchions splay sideways under the pressure. There is no groove nor key to keep them facing forward.  Hmmm, that’s about it.

Time to BBQ a big fish on the Cobb

Time to BBQ a big fish on the Cobb

She’s the kind of girl who climbed the ladder of success wrong by wrong.

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Tortuga

Very early this morning I stride forth with Satoru-san, world-famous photographer, who is staying in the house. We go to check if the boat is OK. We hit the beach. Leading from the sea to my boat are the unmistakable tracks of the mighty turtle. She has hauled herself up to the boat, scrabbled around for a while and then hauled back to the sea. All this not long before we arrived.

Anytime you see a turtle up on top of a fence post, you know he had some help.

Anytime you see a turtle up on top of a fence post, you know he had some help.

There are two possible explanations.  One, the turtle social media is abuzz with the news of a beautiful French flag boat that you have to see. Two, I  have placed my boat on a time-immemorable hatching site for turtles and unable to lay she returns to the sea, marking the end of turtle habitation around here. I obviously opt for the latter.

Guilt

Guilt

After work people come to the steps to swim and watch the sunset.

Swim

Swim

The water is warm and full of squid.

Watch sunset

Watch sunset

Catch squid

Catch squid

I hope the turtle is OK.

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