A’Chleit

So, A’Chleit is Gaelic and is pronounced in English as Klaytch. At A’Chleit there is a wonderful old Highland Church. It is right on the shore and it’s design is unique to the West Highlands. http://www.clachanandcleitandgigha.co.uk/achleit/

Praise the Lord

Praise the Lord

A visit to the church reveals the history of the region.

What was a Kintyre boy doing in Peking in 1911? This? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wuchang_Uprising

What was a Kintyre boy doing in Peking in 1911?
This? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wuchang_Uprising

A far cry from Loch Awe

A far cry from Loch Awe

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norman_Macalister

The Good Book

The Good Book

The Role of Honour is grim. More young men from Killean and Kilchenzie were killed in the First World War than live therein now.

Bent double, like old beggars under sacks,  Knock-kneed, coughing like hags, we cursed through sludge,  Till on the haunting flares(2) we turned our backs  And towards our distant rest(3) began to trudge.  Men marched asleep. Many had lost their boots  But limped on, blood-shod. All went lame; all blind;  Drunk with fatigue; deaf even to the hoots(4)   Of tired, outstripped(5) Five-Nines(6) that dropped behind. Gas!(7) Gas! Quick, boys! – An ecstasy of fumbling,  Fitting the clumsy helmets(8) just in time;  But someone still was yelling out and stumbling,  And flound'ring like a man in fire or lime(9) . . .  Dim, through the misty panes(10) and thick green light,  As under a green sea, I saw him drowning.  In all my dreams, before my helpless sight,  He plunges at me, guttering,(11) choking, drowning.  If in some smothering dreams you too could pace  Behind the wagon that we flung him in,  And watch the white eyes writhing in his face,  His hanging face, like a devil's sick of sin;  If you could hear, at every jolt, the blood  Come gargling from the froth-corrupted lungs,  Obscene as cancer, bitter as the cud(12)   Of vile, incurable sores on innocent tongues,  My friend, you would not tell with such high zest(13)   To children ardent(14) for some desperate glory,  The old Lie; Dulce et Decorum est  Pro patria mori.(15)

Bent double, like old beggars under sacks,
Knock-kneed, coughing like hags, we cursed through sludge,
Till on the haunting flares(2) we turned our backs
And towards our distant rest(3) began to trudge.
Men marched asleep. Many had lost their boots
But limped on, blood-shod. All went lame; all blind;
Drunk with fatigue; deaf even to the hoots(4)
Of tired, outstripped(5) Five-Nines(6) that dropped behind.
Gas!(7) Gas! Quick, boys! – An ecstasy of fumbling,
Fitting the clumsy helmets(8) just in time;
But someone still was yelling out and stumbling,
And flound’ring like a man in fire or lime(9) . . .
Dim, through the misty panes(10) and thick green light,
As under a green sea, I saw him drowning.
In all my dreams, before my helpless sight,
He plunges at me, guttering,(11) choking, drowning.
If in some smothering dreams you too could pace
Behind the wagon that we flung him in,
And watch the white eyes writhing in his face,
His hanging face, like a devil’s sick of sin;
If you could hear, at every jolt, the blood
Come gargling from the froth-corrupted lungs,
Obscene as cancer, bitter as the cud(12)
Of vile, incurable sores on innocent tongues,
My friend, you would not tell with such high zest(13)
To children ardent(14) for some desperate glory,
The old Lie; Dulce et Decorum est
Pro patria mori.(15)

Beach behind the church

Beach behind the church

If you are passing through Kintyre, go visit A’Chleit.

 

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I Cleaned My Father’s Grave

So my Father and Grandfather and other relatives are buried in a cemetery on the hill above Clachan. I went to pay homage. To my dismay, my family tombs were besmirched with seagull faeces and encrusted with lichen.

You will turn back to me & ask for help, and I will answer your prayers. -jeremiah 29:12

You will turn back to me & ask for help, and I will answer your prayers. -jeremiah 29:12

My Grandfather’s and Grandmother’s gravestone is no longer legible due to vegetation and decay.

Fie on ’t, ah fie! 'Tis an unweeded garden That grows to seed. Things rank and gross in nature Possess it merely.

Fie on ’t, ah fie! ‘Tis an unweeded garden
That grows to seed. Things rank and gross in nature
Possess it merely.

Ancestor worship is big on Okinawa and I believe I have been infiltrated. At the sight of my neglected family tombs, my nostrils flare, my blood pressure rises, my sinews stiffen, so I get a bucket of hot water.

Dettol and wire brush

Dettol and wire brush

It's unpleasent to work in and smelly for you too. Stall cleaning should be a daily task.

It’s unpleasant to work in and smelly for you too. Stall cleaning should be a daily task.

It is very pleasant to sit in a Highland cemetery gently scrubbing your ancestors’ gravestones. It is also not something I have done before.

the custom of venerating deceased ancestors who are considered still a part of the family and whose spirits are believed to have the power to intervene in the affairs of the living

The custom of venerating deceased ancestors who are considered still a part of the family and whose spirits are believed to have the power to intervene in the affairs of the living

So this was very enjoyable. Gus am Bris an La.

 

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The Streets of Rome are Filled with Rubble

This is Bob Dylan’s description of the glorious relics of ancient Rome. What would he have said had he visited Kintyre? He might yet – Gigha has a flourishing music festival.

Kintyre is loaded with rubble.

Ballochroy standing stones

Ballochroy standing stone

http://www.stonesofwonder.com/balloch.htm

I need support at Beacharr

I need support at Beacharr

http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/157/beacharr.html

I always thought that megalithic was a period in archeological history. It is not.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megalith

Megalithic cost

Megalithic cist or cyst

Neolithic wuffler for extracting potatoes

Neolithic wuffler for extracting potatoes

 

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I Remember, I Remember the House where I was Born

Dun Skeig

Dun Skeig

So I get to Kintyre where the wedding is to be held. I get up early and go for a ramble around the haunts of my childhood.

Bonnie purple heather

Bonnie purple heather

I climb Dun Skeig.

There are two forts on top of Dun Skeig. This is the modern one.

There are two forts on top of Dun Skeig. This is the modern one.

This is the old one

This is the old one

The old fort is vitrified, which means that the stone has been fused together by application of immense heat. No one knows how it was done. http://skeptoid.com/episodes/4326

A big lump of vitrified wall. What the hammer, what the chain?

A big lump of vitrified wall. What the hammer, what the chain?

Inside the new fort

Inside the new fort

West Loch Tarbert

West Loch Tarbert

The Islay boat passes Gigha

The Islay boat passes Gigha

My faithful fair one

My faithful fair one

A Scottish butterfly

A Scottish butterfly

I walk along the shore road.

Mute Swan with 5 cygnets

Mute Swan with 5 cygnets

Fast food

Fast food

Sheep with blue ear rings rests under the burrows of very rare Sand Martins

Sheep with blue ear rings rests under the burrows of very rare Sand Martins

What did that?

What did that?

Sweet Clachan Burn

Sweet Clachan Burn

Ultra violent sheep

Ultra violent sheep

Very pleasant ramble.

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The Road to the Isles

I drive from Glasgow to Clachan. This means I go North and West.

Loch Lomond is cloudy with drizzle

Loch Lomond is cloudy with drizzle

Arrochar not much better

Arrochar not much better

Rest and Be Thankful

Rest and Be Thankful

 

Bonnie Inverary

Bonnie Inverary

The further West I go the brighter is the sky. Westering home.

Lunch

Lunch

 

Shorter hours and better pay

Shorter hours and better pay

Leaving Port Askaig

Leaving Port Askaig

 

A sporran shop

A sporran shop

Loch Fyne

Loch Fyne

Tarbert

Tarbert

 

Old herring boats in Tarbert harbor

Old herring boats in Tarbert harbor

First glimpse of Jura

First glimpse of Jura

The Islay boat

The Islay boat

What a wonderful drive.

 

 

 

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What is a Foot?

As I wait for my flight I reflect on my feet. There they are odorless, fungus free, and on display to all in the lounge. I feel no shame being barefooted amongst elegant folks. It was no always so. From the age of 11 or so my feet were a source of shame. They smelt, fungi with Latin names thrived between my toes, a very resilient fungus squatted determinedly under my big toe nails. My feet were nasty,brutish and relatively short. Take my shoes off ? I think not.

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Now I am proud of my feet. They smell good, are free of decay and people pay me compliments as they pass by. “Nice feet, friend.” “Bravo! Vous avez des beaux pieds.” “Where did you get your feet? they are like le pied.” Okinawa is a good place for feet. You take your shoes off all the time. You walk a round in the sea. You wear sandals. You spend a lot of time barefooted. I do not think I wash my feet more often than before, it is just that Europe is a bad foot zone.
Big storms at Narita.

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Great bar but it is only 10:00am. Even I quail at drinking whiskey so early. What a pity.

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Pastoral

I leave Okinawa as the sun goes down.

Gaudy Melon Flower

Gaudy Melon Flower

I go to Narita to spend the night in airport hotel from whence to Scotland. When I arrive it is black and I take it that the hotel is in the middle of warehouses and parking lots as such places tend to be.

However I awake to find that the hotel is in the middle of farm land. I have very early breakfast where I learn that the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima on 6 August.

This does not spoil my breakfast

This does not spoil my breakfast

For recreation I go for a tramp around the rice fields and woods. It is beautiful – very quiet, very green, very summery but not like Okinawa.

Rice

Rice

 

What's this?

What’s this?

Makes the crops grow good

Makes the crops grow good

 

Airport hotel

Airport hotel

Very pleasant.

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Shikuwasa

Summer in Okinawa is hot. It has been constantly 30 -35 degrees, day and night since the middle of June.

Doesn't really get any cooler at night.

Doesn’t really get any cooler at night.

Notice that the photo above was taken inside. I do not believe in AC. I am writing this with a headscarf on my er head and a towel draped over my torso, without which  the gallons of perspiration that pump out of my body would form a  pool below my chair, in which geckos would paddle. Did you know that geckos are very noisy? In the evening I would listen to loud birdsong in the house and took it to be an accident of echoes. After a while I realized it was not echoes but geckos, who are constant companions, making noise way beyond their weight.

Anyway the best way to keep cool is to get out onto the sea.

Lunch on the boat

Lunch on the boat

When I get back I mix a drink. The very learned Julia gave me a bottle of gin. I fill a Guinness glass with ice and Okinawan limes called Shickuwasa, splash in gin and top off with Schweppes Tonic Water, which can, to my surprise, be bought in a shop just down the road.

Thanks Julia sensei

Thanks Julia sensei

Glug,glug

Glug,glug

Anything to keep cool.

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I met a traveller from an antique land

Darling you gotta let me know  Should I stay or should I go?  If you say that you are mine  I'll be here til the end of time  So you got to let know  Should I stay or should I go?

Darling you gotta let me know
Should I stay or should I go?
If you say that you are mine
I’ll be here til the end of time
So you got to let me know
Should I stay or should I go?

It is an ancient Mariner
And he stoppeth one of three
`By thy long grey beard and glittering eye
Now wherefore stopp’st thou me?

I am stumbling along my beaches to watch the sunset when a man with glittering eye jumps out from behind a typhoon ravaged rock. He tells me a weird tale of turtles laying eggs on the beach and the stars, moon, test match being aligned to guarantee birth soon. “Aaaargh, the turtlettes must come. Be it tonight be, it tomorrow come they will! The great motion will er like move. The great train will er like shunt. Can you lend me 1000 yen?”

He shows me the nesting sites and is very convincing as to the imminence.

Maternity Ward

Maternity Ward

National Health does not get you much these days.

National Health does not get you much these days.

So, should I sit here all night to watch a hundred baby turtles burrow out of the sand and scuttle down to the sea, just like that what I have seen on the telly? Hell yeah!

I consult a peripatetic hermit crab

I consult a peripatetic hermit crab

She says, “F**k off, leave us alone. Don’ you get it that by watching the experience you will automatically influence it? Don’t you people learn quantum mechanics?”

I watch the sunset and agonize

I watch the sunset and agonize

I decide to leave the poor little things alone. I would be unacceptable if my presence interfered.

Incidentally, I have been catching a different kind of fish. This is a very small one. All the others have been enormous.

Incidentally, I have been catching a different kind of fish. This is a very small one. All the others have been enormous.

 

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I See Mull

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVTg1K9khEY

There is a young persons’ theatre festival in Okinawa at the moment. Amongst the performers are Ailie, yep she spells it like that, and Alasdair. Ailie is a puppeteer and Alasdair does all kinds of stuff. http://www.alsatch.com/

Alasdair lives on Mull, a far cry from Okinawa, both play the fiddle.

We have a party on the beach in front of the house.

Mark supervises the lamb

Mark supervises the lamb

Lefty Grove could throw a lamb chop past a wolf.

Lefty Grove could throw a lamb chop past a wolf.

There are a lot of musicians. With Alasdair I play a lot of tunes that I have not attempted for many years, Mingulay Boat Song, My Home, My Heart is in the Cold, Cold Ground, Pulling Bracken, Scarce o Tatties, Leaving Port Askaig, Atholl Highlanders, Chi mi na morbheanna, Rowan Tree and so on. It is the greatest fun.

A far cry from Loch Awe

A far cry from Loch Awe

I went fishing.

My rod and staff

My rod and staff

A guy in an outrigger sped by

A guy in an outrigger sped by

Earlier this week I was taught Okinawan dancing by the wonderful Chinen san.

Wrist action

Wrist action

 

 

 

 

 

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