Americana

As you all know Okinawa was essentially an American colony from 1945 – 1974 when it was handed back to  Japan. During that period a lifestyle evolved that reminds me of the ‘pied noir’ culture in Algeria – ruling rich minority established by guns in idyllic situation of beach and sun some long way away from the mother culture. Hedonism, style, enjoyment, self belief whilst encircled by an alien civilization.

The traces of that period are still evident in Okinawa. Drive in restaurants, old film posters, beach bars, archaic ads.

Hail the Chief

Wampum

The Coconut Moon - still going after all these years

Check out excellent article in the NYT on the same theme, sent to me by Arnoux sensei.

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/21/world/asia/in-okinawa-some-still-toast-era-of-us-control.html?_r=1&hp

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From the Sweat Of My Hand

World Famous Photographer Satoru san comes to stay. We go to a fantastic restaurant.

This is the Restaurant's card. I am told that the kanji means "From the sweat of my hand" thus we care.

We sit on the floor and to my growing amazement I can now do this pretty well.  Misa san comes too. The food is truly wonderful. Each delicacy is served in a hand made pottery bowl. The staff are smiling and natural and as only Okinawans can be. The restaurant is an old wooden house on the sea. They give us rum distilled on Ie Jima. Never tasted rum before on Okinawa but it makes sense as there is so much sugar cane.

Sartoru san

Sashimi, Sea Grapes, Fish

What I eat - look at the bowls

Misa san

http://thi-anda.com

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Akela, we’ll do our best

Here is a nice article in a nice and very influential publication.

http://chronicle.com/article/A-Science-Institute-in-Okinawa/131025/?key=SW17KFdhMXZAZ3pkNDdAYTcAOCc7YhpyZCYaOiwnblFQFg%3D%3D

The old wolf has not yet missed his buck.

Highland Summer

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Fossil Frolics

A learned colleague has a enviable collection of fossilized shells in his office. He tells me where to go to find them. It sounds very easy. You go to a certain beach on a remote island on the East coast of Okinawa and there in grey muddy cliffs you find the fossils.

Barely recovered from the morning dive I mount Big Red and off we go. The first thing we stumble upon is a party. Not sure what was going on but great dancing. Spring is here.

Where’er the oak’s thick branches stretch
         A broader, browner shade;
Where’er the rude and moss-grown beech
         O’er-canopies the glade,
Beside some water’s rushy brink
With me the Muse shall sit, and think
         (At ease reclin’d in rustic state)
How vain the ardour of the crowd,
How low, how little are the proud,
         How indigent the great!

King Billy

I bike across long bridges spanning turquoise lagoons, stopping to admire birdlife.

Dudes! Eurasian Curlew

The big ones are Greater Sand Plovers and the little ones are Ruddy Turnstones. Happy happy joy joy. Click on the photo for close up.

Rock with shrine

I get to the island and meander.

The shrine on the hill

Inside. There are a lot of signs that I cannot read. But this place is clearly heavy duty.

Old Ryukyu fishing boat

But I have seen,

Pointing her shapely shadows from the dawn,

An image tumbled on a rose-swept bay,

A drowsy ship of some yet older day;

And, wonder’s breath indrawn,

Thought I – who knows – who knows – but in that same

(Fished up beyond Aeaea, patched up new

– Stern painted brighter blue -)

That talkative, bald-headed seaman came

(Twelve patient comrades sweating at the oar)

From Troy’s doom-crimson shore,

And with great lies about his wooden horse

Set the crew laughing, and forgot his course.

Another. Very long, very narrow. I have been told that this length corresponds to the usual swell.

I buy freshly harvested garlic and tomatoes. It is the 4th March.

I find the beach.

On the Beach

This is how to find it:

http://maps.google.com/maps/myplaces?hl=en&ll=26.318883,127.964458&spn=0.012155,0.023303&ctz=-540&t=h&z=16

I ferret

I try hard

I find one tiny shell

Who cares! What a great day. I ride back into the sunset thinking about the evening’s meal which will be fish soup with salad.

Oichi

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Dancing in the Street

So, today is a very springlike day. After weeks of  general grey and weather that is best described as Argyll August, the sun has returned, spreading blue all over the sea.

Noon today

This one bit me

I go diving with my new mask with prescription lenses. I can see. It makes an amazing difference as previously I could only guess and fear what was out there whereas I can now gaze  stout Cortez-like with wild surmise.  Thanks James.

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Sugar – Ooooh Honey Honey

Sugar cane is big in these parts.

“During those three centuries (16 -19), sugar was by far the most important of the overseas commodities that accounted for a third of Europe’s entire economy. ”

I think it probably accounts for about the same here.  There are appears to be no season for sugar or more accurately it is either being planted , grown or harvested in a continual loop.

Getting ready

 

There does not appear to be much slavery going on around here but it is certainly hard work that the whole family contributes to.

Mummy I don't like slashing sugar cane. Be quiet and eat what you are given

DSC_0535

Tombs and Sugar Cane – very Okinawa

 

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Couch Beni Imo

Up to now my sitting room has been a pretty spartan place. A couple of hard-sprung-straight-backed chairs being the only suggestion of comfort. This has changed.

Come back with your shield or on it.

The catalyst was my neighbor who suggested I buy his massive TV as he felt it was too small for his family.  I said yes. I have never owned a TV this big before. It is fantastic.

The dude abides

After a few nights watching movies sitting on a hard-sprung-straight-backed chair, the idea comes into my head that a sofa would be nice. I go to Okinawa yard sales

https://quietripple.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/okinawayardsales-com/

and find a brown leather sofa for sale at very low price. I visit the amazing Sarah yesterday with a big van and we hilariously bullock the sofa down 3 flights of stairs. The sofa is too big for the van but who cares. I love this stuff – getting things done with little preparation but lots of determination.

It was raining too

I set off but after a mile or so I realize that I had left the cushions at Sarah’s place. She drives up to find me. What a great woman.

Sarah

I get back to my place but realize that I will never be able to get the sofa into the elevator on my own. I just hang around until a young military couple from California  turn up. With typical Californian courtesy they help me with the sofa which will not go into the elevator but has to be inched up the stairs.  I have a sofa got.

I think I will spend quite a lot of time on the horizontal plane.

Sunday is cold and rainy so I have every reason to self indulge. I download England v Wales and sit on the couch, drink beer and watch rugby. Bliss.

Actually I find rugby a bit dull these days. They just run into each other.

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When I consider how my light is spent

So, I am shortsighted. Not much and in fact my sight is getting better as I get older. However where I notice it most is underwater.Again this is not a major handicap as I am very happy squinting at coral and stuff at close range but from time to time people signal to me to look at something in the distance and I see it not. Whales and stuff.

This is about to change as son James has sent me prescription diving mask from SF.

Tomorrow to fresh woods and pastures new

It is February, the weather is blusterly.  Patience.

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So geographers, in Afric maps, With savage pictures fill their gaps, And o’er unhabitable downs Place elephants for want of towns.

Interesting day today – I have lunch with a professional flautist for a start. I bring my flute and he plays Bach. Amazing to hear someone who knows what they are doing playing your instrument. My flute has since left home in search of a better life.

You blow across the hole and move your fingers up and down

After lunch I go to discuss things at a science place in Okinawa City. They meet me with an elephant.

Not easy getting on an elephant

Yeeha!

Nice elephant

Me

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Hello Naha

After a night of Free Drink, I get up early and after a standard breakfast set off into the morning streets of Naha.

Miso soup , rice and stuff

The main drag in Naha is Kokusai Street. It is not very interesting as 70% of the shops sell exactly the same tourist stuff. Or so I thought.

Good for drinking Awamori from

My  long stroll has led to a reassessment of downtown Naha. Sure enough, there is a lot of tourist merchandise but there is more.

Kokusai

There is the Makishi public Market which has the most spectacular fish stalls I have ever seen.

I buy some goat.

Je suis tendre

Do you think she likes me?

The market is enhanced by a sticker by the world famous street artist CCTV.

I wuz here

I write a blog at Starbucks.

Ipadophilia

I watch dogs.

Woof

I find some Giants fans.

http://spikekalashnikov.wordpress.com/2010/11/04/blew-it/

Take me out to the ball game

I find the best wines in the world in a supermarket.

They are fakes. Empty bottles disguised

I find some old houses. This may not sound like too big a deal but remember that the battle of Okinawa left the island  a “vast field of mud, lead, decay, and maggots.”

I go home and have lunch.

You have to love Okinawa

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