Good Morning Glory

Okinawa is absolutely covered in Morning Glory. Lamp posts, houses, hillsides are bedecked with the plant. It climbs tens of meters up trees and the drive to work in the morning is a joy as all the flowers are out and pointillist splats of blue are everywhere.

Post outside my house.

An entire hillside of Morning Glory. Poor mid afternoon photo I am afraid

Anyway,  during the day I was cogitating on this blog  when my learned friend Hideo Yamasaki, by amazing coincidence during a great visit to theUniversity of the Ryukyus this afternoon, gave me wonderful information on the Morning Glory. This was unprompted – he just started to talk about Morning Glory. Isn’t life strange.

So, the Morning Glory was the object of intense research and development  during the Edo period in Japan.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edo_period
Hundreds of new varieties were bred. The Rose to England, the Tulip to Holland , the Morning Glory to Japan.

Classical paintings of Morning Glory c. 1817

Many thanks to Yamasaki san for these beautiful paintings

Here is a web page about Morning Glory.

http://mg.biology.kyushu-u.ac.jp/

It is Japanese but if you click around you will find everything you ever wanted to know about these beautiful flowers.

Try the links below:

旧掲示板

 画像カタログ(大型)

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Testophobia

I still have nightmares about failing exams. These  nightmares are never staged  in the examination room  itself but some days or weeks before and are characterized by a realization that I have not done sufficient work and I am going to fail, resulting in unbearable humiliation and exposure. There is nothing I can do. It is too late. Charlie Drake expressed a similar dread of the inevitable in his classic, “Please Mr Custer.”

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl1RltqVK4I

So imagine my joy when I sail through my open water diver tests. The first exam I have passed in over 30 years! Hooray I am now a qualified diver. Thanks here to my very capable instructor, Jan.  You want to learn to dive in calm, personalized,  non-gung-ho-way?  Then come to Okinawa and sign up with Jan.

http://www.piranha-divers.jp/

Jan the Man

We do two great dives off Maeda Point, the second one taking over an hour. The surface of the sea is the perfect disguise. You stare at it yet have no idea what is the true nature of the sea. Underneath there is a world completely other. In my dotage I have no desire to do anything extreme or challenging. I just want to hang out down there and observe. The water was very transparent and we ambled along the reef just looking at stuff, freaky fish, crazy coral,  sinuous sea snakes, and current favorite  –  the nudibranch.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nudibranch

I had never heard of these things before but they are my current proposal for Nature’s best bits of jewelry work.

See what I mean?

Anyway I reward my success with a big tropical fish.

Unknown fish, big radish, spicy garlic and an onion

I like it here!

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Where’s Me Shirt

In Okinawa there correct formal dress in the Summer months is not the ubiquitous shirt and tie, I am told, but the Kariyushi shirt. These a highly patterned affairs with lots of flowers and things. I bought my first one to wear on a visit by the President of the University of the Ryukyus. It is beautifully woven from thread made from cotton and er leaves. This is how the lady I bought it from explained it.

Early morning Kariyushi

I was the only person at the meeting wearing one. The rest had suits and ties.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kariyushi_shirt

This shirt talk reminds me of Ken Dodd

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CejKxTc3sc4

WHERE’S ME SHIRT ? Ken Dodd – 1965

Well it all began in the year of one When Adam was the first man And a girl called Eve, so we believe Was made to be his woman She led him up the Garden of Eden, by a tree Then she offered him her apple And he cried out suddenly (eee-eeee-eeeee)

SPOKEN (Liverpool Accent): Where’s me shirt? Where’s me shirt? I feel a proper twazzer without me shirt I’ve got me tickling-tackle and me nicky-nocky-noo But I must confess I feel undressed Like this, in front of you

SPOKEN (Liverpool Accent): Where’s me shirt? I can’t find me shirt anywhere. It’s twenty-five past five in the Garden of Eden and I can’t find me shirt. Fancy leaving me in a garden with no shirt on, like this. Look at all these creepy-crawly things here. Ooh, look, there’s a serpent. Go ‘way. Go ‘way you nasty old serpent. Go on, shoo! Go on, shoo!

Since the days of old, we’ve all been told Of men like Bonaperte His great retreat and his first defeat Was the thing that broke his heart He stuck just outside Moscow and then made history He stuck his hand inside his coat And cried out bitterly (eee-eeee-eeeee)

SPOKEN (Liverpool Accent): Where’s me shirt? Where’s me shirt? I can’t go on like zis, wizout my shirt I’ve had my tickle-tonic on my nicky-nocky-nee But I just can’t go through all this snow Without a shirt on me

SPOKEN (Liverpool Accent): Where’s me shirt? Oh, sacre blue. Sacre flippin’ blue, where’s me shirt? By Jove, t’ain’t ‘alf frosty. Ooh, ooh, this tent isn’t ‘alf drafty. I don’t know where the draft’s comin’ from, but I know where it’s goin’ to.

Back in eighty-one, in the mid-day sun In Tombstone, one September Wyatt Earp was due to go into A gunfight he’d remember The Clanton’s and McLourys started firin’ suddenly As the gunsmoke cleared and the twonsfolk cheered Wyatt Earp said quietly (eee-eeee-eeeee)

SPOKEN (Liverpool Accent): Where’s me shirt? Where’s me shirt?

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Slice

As I ate lunch by the sea shore yesterday I noticed people coming up to a freestanding stainless steel box against which I had leant Big Red. The box has a very long tube attached that leads up to the first floor of an adjacent building.

Fruit machine.

It is a mega ice machine. It is a bit like slot machine on a big scale. You put 500 yen  into slot way over on the building.

They (slot machines) sit there like young courtesans, promising pleasures undreamed of, your deepest desires fulfilled, all lusts satiated.

Every time it fulfills your darkest desires as you always win. It grumbles and groans and suddenly loads of ice comes swooshing down the pipe and crashes into the box.

Jackpot!

How amazing to construct a whole building to supply ice to the general public.

See how big it is. I wonder what the symbol means. Ice?

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Sunday Morning

I like to go for a ride on my bike on Sunday morning. Nothing too athletic but a gentle snoop around the region that hopefully includes eating fish and some discoveries. It is a beautiful day. I head off behind my home and soon stumble upon a bakery. It is nestled in  a little valley and serves meals and bakes bread. What it is called is beyond my abilities to inform you.

Okinawa's gentle ways grow on you.

The kindest people. Spot the Le Creuset.

Notice hand stamped brown paper bag and cellophane tied up with string.

The owners keep a donkey.

Nice ears

Off towards the sea through fields of sugar cane.

Just a little beach with a breakwater

Trapped in an irresistible vortex I spin towards the fishing harbor and en route pass a little shrine.

Rice, salt, money, maybe awamori and an ancient stone

I get to the harbor.

Look at the water

Very clear

Let’s buy some fish and maybe have lunch.

Assorted sashimi, plump fish of unknown name, seaweed and fish on rice accompanied by sashimi and perfect fish broth. The meal is 500 yen.

My favorite restaurant. I wonder what all the signs say?

Stop off at a shop that sells fisherman’s trousers in amazing colors. I buy some blue ones and a wooden flower.

trousers

Trousers and flowers

Flower assembled

These are handmade and painted flowers from Indonesia. Ludicrously cheap

Good way to spend the morning.

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Trash

Just a quick one on Okinawan waste management.  The Japanese are admirably disciplined about their trash. The trash world here is divided into two kingdoms, you know a bit like Gaul but one less. One world is burnable,

Vercingetorix

the other is non-burnable.  Burnable goes into special  bags that you can buy from local convenience stores. Each town has its own bags so don’t go using Onna-son bags in Yomitan. These bags have red writing all over them. Non-burnable goes into clear plastic bags and there is  an exception for plastic bottles, which, O best beloved, will burn but must also be junked into clear plastic bags.

Bag it.

Outside my apartment block there are two little sheds. You got it. One is where you put the burnable, the other is for non-burnable. Apartheid trash.

Joe D'Allesandro

 

I notice that the top story on Britain’s Daily Telegraph website is:

‘Immoral’ bin fines by council ‘rubbish police’ to be outlawed

Don’t you love British journalism.

 

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Suffering Sea Snakes!

So today I finally do it. I have been planning to do it more or less all my adult life but the mystical planets that create opportunity in life were never aligned until I came to Okinawa. Here these planets are queuing up.

The process started by meeting up with Jan a couple of weeks ago to starting the training. Jan runs the school.

http://www.piranha-divers.jp/

He has a long confucian kinda beard pouring out of his chin and an enormous metal ring in his earlobe. I think he is 23. (This is wrong see comment below.)

Ear ring a bit like this

We did theory stuff and I passed! Last week we did shallow water stuff and today we went deep. We met on a sea wall in the middle of a very built up part of Okinawa, strapped on the gear I bought last weekend  and dove er dived.  Upstairs; concrete sea wall, concrete apartment buildings, gas stations, supermarkets, huge air force base; downstairs you are living in the most exotic aquarium you have seen in any Chinese restaurant.

It is astonishing.

You have weights that drag you down but the surprise for me is a waistcoat thing called a BCD. This is connected to your air tank such that you can inflate or deflate it so as to increase or decrease your bouyancy.  Once you get it set up right you hang in the water at the depth you want and use breathing in or out to alter your depth. Breath out you go down, breathe in you go up. It is a great feeling as you do not have to move your arms or legs at all allowing you to concentrate on what you are looking at.

What you are looking at is amazing coral, every color, texture and shape imaginable; the most exotic fish, from 18 color angel fish, little brilliant blue things, friendly sea snakes, to barracuda.

Incredible er thing that lives under the sea

There appear to be loads of these er things of infinite variety. I wonder what they are. Dead souls?

Jan is a great instructor, firm on the important stuff but essentially lets you get on with it.

Check out his Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Piranha-Divers-Okinawa/299357998089

We do  two  50 minute dives with a few drills but mainly cruising around the reef.  Said reef drops down like a cliff  and we go about 60 feet down. The cliff face is covered in soft corals that wave in the current and twitch and shudder when you touch.

Deep down

So at last I have done it. I want to do it again.

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Harry Potter

Pottery or ceramics are big around here. With the amazing good luck that seems to characterize the period I strut and fret my life out on the stage, I have got to know Yamada san. He is probably the doyen of the Okinawa potters. A totally charming man who has exhibited his work all around the world but works with strictly local materials er like coral and mud and stuff and uses the most incredible kiln.

“Today, three main kilns dominate Yomitan. Probably the most well known of the three is the central Kita Kiln (Kita Gama). Designed by master potter Shinman Yamada (who has a studio nearby), the kiln is a nobori-gama (climbing kiln) used for firing jōyachi (glazed) pottery. Built on a slope, the kiln consists of nine chambers called fukuro. It is fired only a few times a year, with each artist receiving opportunities to place their items in the kiln to be baked.”

So,

Light my fire

they only fire this thing up 3 times a year and I was invited to today’s firing. The thing burns for 3 days.

Fire, to destroy all you've done. Fire, to end all you've become. I'll feel you burn

“It ain't the heat; it's the humility.”

Generally when there's a lot of smoke... there's just a whole lot more smoke.

Check out the results

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16995525@N04/sets/72157623457492159/

 

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Dive, dove, dove?

“Dive, which was originally a weak verb, developed a past tense dove, probably by analogy with verbs like drive, drove. Dove exists in some British dialects and has become the standard past tense especially in speech in some parts of Canada. In the United States dived and dove are both widespread in speech as past tense and past participle, with dove less common than dived in the south Midland area, and dived less common than dove in the Northern and north Midland areas. In writing, the past tense dived is usual in British English and somewhat more common in American English. Dove seems relatively rare as a past participle in writing.”

Hmmm, always wondered what correct usage was but I suppose it is one of those ‘it’s up to you’  language things. Anyway that is what I have been doing this weekend. I dove, er dived.

All day Saturday splashing around in the warm China Sea with my instructor Jan. Jan is German, has a very big ear implant and is 23 years old. He knows what he is doing and we go through a series of drills that will eventually lead to me becoming a certified diver.  Underwater mask off, mask on , take off tank, put it back on again, hover underwater, rescue your buddy, give him air and all that kind of good stuff.  I pass the theoretical test and seem to be doing OK on practical. All being well I will ‘graduate’ next week.

Jan mentions that US military are moving and I might get cheap diving gear by looking on the-already-blogged-about Okinawayardsales.com – the world’s greatest web site, around here.

http://www.okinawayardsales.com

Dave is selling complete diving equipment for $300. Something fishy  as the equipment he describes comes in through the thousands door rather than the hundreds back entrance.

I phone and agree to meet early afternoon.

I am invited to breakfast. It is an offer that I do not want to refuse. We eat pineapple in Grand Marnier and  perfect cheese souflles, sorry about the accent. We look over the bay of Nagahama. There are 8 colors of blue, there are people wading in the low tide to collect seaweed, there are Ospreys floating overhead.

We go onto an art exhibition. I phone Dave to say I will be late. He mentions that he is 5ft 8 and weighs 240lbs and I get it. The stuff is so cheap because he is short and er stout so his equipment fits a limited public.  I go through the art show of Okinawan artists, excellent d’ailleurs, with the niggling feeling that I should go and have a look at the diving stuff . If the wet suit is dumpty, so what? as that price for a tank,  a BCD,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buoyancy_compensator_(diving)

fins, mask, snorkel, is still really good.

I get home at 5:00 and feel sluggish but force myself to go and see Dave even though I am 4 hours late. I find his place. He is ex military and, er, plump. The equipment is almost brand new

There must be something wrong

It all fits my statuesque frame and I press soiled bills into his hand before he changes his mind.

Still life with Gorilla and Cane Toad

So how do I feel about this incredible deal? I mean the bag it all comes in is worth $300. I feel that the common denominator of life is misery and pain and a lucky break like this is just a short period of up before life dumps a lot of down.

I increasingly sense that this British view of life – rain, endurance, understatement, misery and pain- that I was brought up to revere is in fact deeply flawed. So here is a big Yipppeee!!!  for having got such an amazing deal!!

Keep reading to hear when irresponsible joy is punished. Then snigger.

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“Papa’s Got a Brand New Bag”

Ding, ding it is 7:00 am. I spring from the futon, pull on some shorts, a t-shirt and head out onto the terrace. Blue, blue China Sea, green, green Okinawa, fresh, fresh air and straight ahead the heavy bag.

Come here sister Papa's in the swing He ain't too hip now but I can dig that new breed babe; He ain't no drag He's got a brand new bag.

So I do repetitions of 60 seconds. I have 6 combinations like: left right duck weave, left right left hook right hook, left right  uppercut  uppercut, left right left hook straight right etc etc. The whole thing takes 6 minutes but I am panting and my arms feel as if they will drop off.

The cock crows and the blue rock thrush sings. I go make some tea and Miso soup.

He led with his head, he didn't head-butt

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